Series 2 swivel housings on series one?

[rfurzer]

My basket-case 86" has very bad swivel housings and has some slop in the stub shaft splines.
Can I put early s2 housings on the s1 diff carrier ( which looks to be 2cm narrower than the s1. I would obviously use s1 half shafts.
Is there a better way?
S2 bits and pieces are fairly easy to come by.
Russ

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You can use any swivel balls up to SIII (but not stage 1) on your 86".

The, housings are a different matter, while you can also use the later SIIa/SIII swivel housings, the later type have larger studs on the bottom and top swivel bearings and the steering levers are non-pendant (steering levers from the bottom bearing).

You can drill out your steering lever holes but it doesn't leave much metal around the studs.

If you change to the non-pendant steering levers, you also have to swap the lower steering relay lever to the later cranked type.

As for the slop, you may be able to find better examples second hand. You can also use the SII outer half shaft on the inner half shaft.

You can use the drive flanges from any SII/SIIa or any SIII 88" although you won't have the star pattern in the SIIa/SIII.

You can even use the whole SIIa/SIII 88" axle assemblies and get a better turning circle and not have the problems of the semi floating rear axle.

The stub axle (that supports the wheel bearings) you can swap from any vehicle up to 1980 SIII (front for front and rear for rear).

Diana

[brendanm]

Have you thought of replacing the whole axle to a series 2 and gaining larger brakes. I know this would loose the strictly historical accuracy. At the moment I have done this to a series 1 and upgraded the master cylinder to a 2a to suit the slave cylinders. If all works out I hope to gain greater braking and stability. I think with the 6 x16 inch tyres and the narrower series 1 rim they should just finish inside the guards.

[rfurzer]

Thanks for that great post Diana. Might be best off to just use the s2 stuff then.

If I did use the wider s2 front assembly and retained the narrower s1 rear, would there be any dramas?

Although I'm not an originality fanatic (using a 2.25 engine for a start), I do want to keep it s1 where reasonable. The (inferior) s1 semi floating axles do look different.

Russ

[rfurzer]

And thanks brendan- you posted while I was replying to Diana.
I hadn't considered the s2 brake master cyl. That would be easier to get.
Any issues fitting it that I might consider?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Russ

There are arguments both ways about different tracks, however IMHO you are best to stick to the same track front and rear so swap both or don't swap.

1958 S1 were common with fully floating rear axles and it was an optional retrofit on earlier models.

Diana

[rfurzer]

It's interesting that the fully floating axles were an option and were used in 1958. Did those units have the wider s2 track?

[bobslandies]

It's interesting that the fully floating axles were an option and were used in 1958. Did those units have the wider s2 track?

No, they had the narrow track and the correct shorter axles are "no longer available".

The longer Series 2/3 10-spline axles were then used as replacements even in the 1960s by fitting spacers made from machined worn out drive flanges or spacers turned up for the purpose together with longer flange bolts. If I remember the difference is about 5/8 of an inch per side, that is the thickness of a Series 1 "star" shaped flange.

Bob

[Andrew Morris]

I've got a spare series one front axle. Chrome on swivels is a bit ratty one side but other side is fine.
Otherwise they feel pretty tight.
Wheel bearings and brakes are stuffed. Send a pm if you are interested. I am near Toowoomba.

[dreamin']

Private message sent, Russell

Roger