Stage 1 Door handles/locks

[Skiboy]

The stage one front doors won't lock on my truck - turn key but can still open from outside.

I think I need new locks but it is unclear to me as an uninitiated Series/Stage One parts orderer if you can order replacement locks or if I should order whole new door mechanism with locks integrated

And if I get new locks/latch mechanisms which ones are best to get and where from?

All suggestions appreciated
Skiboy

[Dinty]

I'm fairly confident that Series3 & the S3 Stage 1 share the same door locking mechanisms, hope thats of some help, cheers Dennis
ps no idea on where to source anything like that in your part of the world though, but I'm sure someone from Qld will help out,,.

[JDNSW]

I assume it has the antiburst locks. (if not, ignore the following!)

These will sometimes fail to lock (either with the key or with the toggle inside) if the door is not closed properly - try with the door open and turn the bit that hits the striker plate by hand. If this is the problem, adjusting the striker plate so the door does not close quite as tightly may solve the problem, and some light oil squirted into the lock may help, as may just slamming the door harder.

Apart from these suggestions - new lock. Should be available from any parts supplier, last one I got came from Fred Smith in Melbourne, but that was years ago, and not handy to you. They are not particularly cheap.

John

[Skiboy]

Thanks John

My doors have to be slammed to get them to shut so it might be the situation you refer to

They come of an 86 (I think) Stage one so I imagine are anti burst - looks like a normal door latch in terms of how it rotates around the post on the door jam

If we need to slam them to shut them does that mean I need to move the latch toward the outside of the car? I think they have only up and down adjustment

Note I have new rubbers so that might be the issue - too tight and stiff?

Skiboy

[jerryd]

Here you go

Land Rover Series 3 Burst Proof Door Handle-New LHS | eBay

Both of mine recently gave up but luckily I had a spare set to replace them, I haven't worked out how to fit the lock barrels yet though

[JDNSW]

Thanks John

My doors have to be slammed to get them to shut so it might be the situation you refer to

They come of an 86 (I think) Stage one so I imagine are anti burst - looks like a normal door latch in terms of how it rotates around the post on the door jam

If we need to slam them to shut them does that mean I need to move the latch toward the outside of the car? I think they have only up and down adjustment

Note I have new rubbers so that might be the issue - too tight and stiff?

Skiboy

Yes, they are antiburst locks from your description, but I doubt from an 86 - I think the last Stage 1 was 83.

The striker plate will have some movement in and out, and yes, towards the outside is needed. And new rubbers are likely to have caused the result, although wear inside the locks will have contributed. But move the striker plates out a few mm and it is likely you will fix the problem. With any Series Landrover ending up with accurate panel alignment will be the last thing to worry about - get the door locks working properly, and if the panels line up accurately, good, if not, it is a Landrover, designed as a working vehicle, not a fashion statement.

John

[Brad110]

I have this exact problem.

Replaced with new and won't fully close.

Problem as you describe and as well I had to increase the standoff from the puller as the mechanism was hitting the end of the catch.

I used them for a week to let them bed into the old rubbers then adjusted them up. Still frustrating. When I look at how worn the old ones were I wonder how they worked.

New available for around $110 each from Anthony Johnson 97288046 Melbourne.

Good luck with it.

Brad

[Brad110]

Re 'puller' read 'pillar'????

[Skiboy]

Thanks Brad, John and Jerryd

John: "I doubt from an 86 - I think the last Stage 1 was 83."
Could be - was going from memory and knew it is 80 something - truck at air con joint at moment so could not check the plate. Locks work when doors not shut - ie worked well on a bench test but not in action

John: "move the striker plates out a few mm and it is likely you will fix the problem. With any Series Landrover ending up with accurate panel alignment will be the last thing to worry about - get the door locks working properly, and if the panels line up accurately, good, if not, it is a Landrover, designed as a working vehicle, not a fashion statement."

I will look at tonight when I get it home - hopefully now with Air Con!!

When I fitted the doors back on (this truck became a body swap onto a rangie chassis) alignment was difficult - not after perfect but needed to get a balance of gaps and alignment and shutting. Once I fitted new rubber all the drama started with shutting. Had the problem Brad refers to where door hit latch end of the stick out bit on end of striker plate on pillar. Took some spacers out to fix that.

Will try shifting striker plate to outside of vehicle then will look at new locks - will try UK first as cheaper

Is there an alternate option to the normal bottom rubber? I have replaced the side rubbers with defender style cutting the lip off as much softer style. It seems the stiff bottom one and fairly stiff top rubbers (normal series style) are the issues re tight fit at the moment.

Finally understand point that not a fashion statement (although with no dirt on it at moment it is a bit of a fashion statement). When we painted the panels we did not fill any dents - did weld up/rivet some holes though from cutting front and rear end of tub. So it looks used but this is for off road 4x4 ing and possibly comps so it will be used as is its Rangie Ute stable mate.

Current clean/yet to be used pic below




And with its stable mate

Skiboy