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Thread: Amphibious Bicycle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Amphibious Bicycle

    I have for a while now been thinking about riding from sweden to denmark and the only way to do that is by going across the water.
    It isnt very far and the water isnt very choppy.
    I have been looking at a few concepts and I would really like to be able to ride the bike pretty much straight into the water and keep going where as most designs require stopping and putting up frames and flotations.
    I reallise I will have to at least pause before going into the water but if I could stay on the bike while I get ready to go into the water that would be good.
    Another problem is do I put paddles on the spokes on the rear wheel for the power and cover the front wheel so it can be my rudder/steering?
    or do I run a propeller off the back tyre with a mini wheel or do I run a propeller off the front wheel from the rear tyre using something like a speedo cable?
    before even looking into it this is the design I had in my head Homemade Amphibious Bicycle | Design on GOOD
    but I quite like this SHUTTLE BIKE KIT - The Official Website as it goes well and it keeps my feat dry and doesnt splash.
    What are your thoughts? And remember This will be on a budget

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    lets see....

    add some pannier mounts to the bike, add the panniers

    sew up some canvas float bags and make a set of folding hoops for them constructed so that when the bags inflate the hoops automatically fold out. (you may need to make up strut hinge mounts so that you can deploy them lower than the center line of the wheels)

    make up a mount to provide a wheel drive to a small compressor run that off of the rear wheel. hook it up to the bags. if you can build it into a small airtight box that you can switch the inlet and exhausts so you can simply vac the bags down on the other side of the crossing

    for propulsion.

    make up a reduction box drive with a drive tube pivot setup so that when you fold the prop down the reduction drive is bought into play against the side of the rear wheel (and you'll want a rubber running wheel on there) and that the torque reaction drags the drive wheel into the back tyre.

    Steering is acomplished easily if you use one of the areo-style wheels at the front of the bike or fit about a 4 inch wide strip of plastic around the circumferance of the rim near the rim wound through the spokes.

    The hardest part is achieving stability, this is done most easily by making the floats at the rear slightly longer and wider to take most of the weight and setting the bike up so that you can shift backwards over the front of the rear floats letting the larger floats doing the lifting and lateral stability and the smaller floats on the front wheel provide longitudinal stability and aiding in the steering.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    I did see someone just got a blow up boat and cut the bottom out and then made a frame from poly pipe it was quite good and simple and it folded up around the bike but i would still need to stop and blow it up and they propelled it using a drill which is cheating but I could use that design and make a pedal powered propeller

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