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Thread: Stage One current leak

  1. #1
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    Stage One current leak

    I have 0.1 amp being drawn with the ignition off in my stage one wiring loom. It is a PIA to disconnect the battery after running and going to let it sit and destroying my battery.

    There is no draw across the fuses!

    So the draw must be via either the ign key or something connected to the left side of the fuse block right?

    Any suggestions on how I might track this down - note there is a non-functioning Ammeter in the dash - could this be the cause? I can't find a wiring diagram that shows how this might have been wired up in original vehicle - fitted from dealer (either factory or by dealer but there since new).

    See instrument cluster below


    thanks in advance
    Keith

    89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
    75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
    2012 RRS - The new touring vehicle

  2. #2
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    Measure the current flow when you
    1. disconnect the alternator's main power cable.
    2. disconnect the radio memory fuse if you have one.
    3. Also listen for tiny clicks etc from relays and such like when you connect the battery up.

    Or get a trickle charger, either mains or solar.

  3. #3
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    I have a battery isolator switch mounted in the drivers footwell on the seat box


  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Measure the current flow when you
    1. disconnect the alternator's main power cable.
    2. disconnect the radio memory fuse if you have one.
    3. Also listen for tiny clicks etc from relays and such like when you connect the battery up.

    Or get a trickle charger, either mains or solar.
    Thanks bee utey

    Current flow not affected by (1) disconnecting alt wires are alt (alt not the original later model refurbished one fitted) - what were you thinking here?

    Re (2) Radio not connected to this battery (to isolated aux battery)

    Re (3) no relays in system other than ign relay - all rest are after ign. Head lights (Traxide) uses ign power, Computer (and hence fuel pumps) use ign power etc

    Have a CTEK charger but this only relevant if long periods of no use - battery is a yellow top optima.

    My issue is 2 weeks after a long running weekend should hold power not drop to 10.5v!

    Only item I see working is the clock - maybe I should test its current draw?

    Ammeter not connected I found and no wires??? As I understand it the ammeter should run between the alt and rest of loom with bit fat cables so no voltage drop/handle current. Will need to see if new alt is more than the 60amp ammeter gauge runs to. Not sure.

    Skiboy

    89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
    75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
    2012 RRS - The new touring vehicle

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    I have a battery isolator switch mounted in the drivers footwell on the seat box

    Thanks John

    Good suggestion and I had thought about this (see below) but the point was this should not be necessary! I will do this if can't sort the underlying issue out but wanted the isolating switch to be more a safety item (and crude security block for the uninitiated thief).

    This would certainly be easier than pushing seat back and squeezing hand in to disconnect neg terminal.

    I have an isolating switch that is a more fancy version of the one above that also turns the alternator off (so can't keep running after started) that I have not fitted this yet. These are required for competitions as a safety device and not a bad idea on all 4x4 being used off road given roll over risk vis-a-vis tarmac use.

    Also why I use AGM batteries so no leaks under seat.

    Might be fitting switch in weekend to save battery while running down the problem. At least my new battery cable crimp tool arrived so can make my own leads!

    89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
    75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
    2012 RRS - The new touring vehicle

  6. #6
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    Alternators can have leaking diodes, your words highlighted below are unclear about what you disconnected, i.e. the power wires off the back.

    I would never again use an old style ammeter, I've seen too many melted ammeters to be happy with that type. An ammeter is there to show the charge/discharge rate of the main battery so is wired between the battery and the rest of the electrics, with the sole exeption of the starter. Unless you have an ammeter designed to be used with a current shunt out by the battery, I would avoid it like the plague.

    If you have a computer, unplug it too. Most have some battery feed to them and use ignition key input to control the output.

    But the idea of a battery isolator switch sounds like a good idea to me. Lots of vehicles will drain a battery when parked, they are designed to be used every day.




    Quote Originally Posted by Skiboy View Post
    Thanks bee utey

    Current flow not affected by (1) disconnecting alt wires are alt (alt not the original later model refurbished one fitted) - what were you thinking here?

    Re (2) Radio not connected to this battery (to isolated aux battery)

    Re (3) no relays in system other than ign relay - all rest are after ign. Head lights (Traxide) uses ign power, Computer (and hence fuel pumps) use ign power etc

    Have a CTEK charger but this only relevant if long periods of no use - battery is a yellow top optima.

    My issue is 2 weeks after a long running weekend should hold power not drop to 10.5v!

    Only item I see working is the clock - maybe I should test its current draw?

    Ammeter not connected I found and no wires??? As I understand it the ammeter should run between the alt and rest of loom with bit fat cables so no voltage drop/handle current. Will need to see if new alt is more than the 60amp ammeter gauge runs to. Not sure.

    Skiboy

  7. #7
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    bee utey thanks - sorry for typo - proof reading not my strength.

    I disconnected the two brown wires that carry the current from the Alt to battery terminal post on the starter - disconnected at the alt end.

    Ok re ammeter - thanks for the advice - was only looking to reconnect because it is there in the cluster and it is the only non-working element. i guess this is why it was disconnected - that's ok because I have another gauge to fit in the space - you have motivated me now.

    Skiboy

    89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
    75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
    2012 RRS - The new touring vehicle

  8. #8
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    The one downside to the battery isolator that I have experienced is: if I want to use the radio I have to seek the favourite station again each time I turn the car on!

    I tend to leave it turned on most of the time but, there again, the car is a daily driver at the moment so any potential battery drain is picked up at least twice a day driving to and from work.

    Should I leave it anywhere for an extended time, however, it is certainly a thief deterrent. (unless they know where the battery is on these vehicles and have a spanner in their pocket...)

  9. #9
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    Ok took instrument pod out and tested current draw of clock - it draws 0.003 amps

    With clock disconnected the batt draw drops from 0.099 or o.098 down to 0.095 amps

    So then disconnected all wires connected to the left side of fuse block which SHOULD mean no current draw right? with ignition off there should be no power to anything

    Current draw at batt via neg terminal still 0.095 amps

    So I am at a loss how there can be current draw with no wires connected to fuses - has to be something taking current from the starter terminal block?

    Any ideas what to do now?
    Ski boy

    89 Orange Rangie UTE - our play thing - sadly now sold
    75 Rangie/Series/Hybrid - Bumblebee with a sting!!!!
    2012 RRS - The new touring vehicle

  10. #10
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    Since it is a series not everything goes through the fuse box so probably there is something happening outside of that. I discovered just the other day that the heater fan in the Series 3 runs on auxiliary power and has it's own inline fuse stuck in the wire behind the dash rather than using the fuse box. Have a good look at the wiring diagram to see anything that is not fused.

    Cheers,

    Tim.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

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