BACKLASH SHUNT PUMA 110

[gasman]

I reckon this has been answered somewhere in these millions of posts, but I searched and came up with 28 pages of posts that were around the failing of the rear diff on Pumas.
That makes me real happy.
My first question was about fitting locked diff to the rear and then I read this.
So, can one fit a locked diff to a puma with ABS and TC? and could the above be contributing to my backlash shunting problems when ranging gears?
It will change without shunting if i slowly release the clutch while building revs, but this means getting passed by people on pushbikes. Not good for the LR image.

[goingbush]

First thing I'd look to is who installed the rear diff lock, they probably botched it. For starters your better off with a Truetrac than a difflock, esp with TC / ABS.

If they didn't install heavy duty axles at the same time and remove the inner axle, stub seals & convert to oil filled hubs my guess if your rear axle splines / flanges are stuffed.

chock the wheels good, front and back.

release handbrake

put transfercase and main gearbox in neutral

get under car and try to turn each propshaft ,

if you can turn either propshaft anymore than about 15-20 degrees you have a
problem

if you have a rear difflock you should have less backlash than normal,

if you have excessive backlash remove your plastic caps off the drive flanges (in the center of the hubs) get someone to watch the axles move in the spline as you turn the props back and forth, there should be bugger all, any movement and your drive flanges are stuffed , probably from running dry.


if your backlash in the diffs axles seems fine, then put the transfer case into gear and grab one prop in each hand and turn them back and forth against each other. take note of the amount of movement, then engage center diff lock and recheck propshaft slop , if its significantly less with difflock engaged you might need transfer case work.

if all that seems ok you need to look toward suspension - e.g. rear balljoint ontop of the diff or trailing arm bushes are probably stuffed.

[newhue]

I'm not sure if you have a locker, or want to fit a locker. But yes you can fit a manual locker, or a limited slip variety (trutrac) which works well with ABS from all reports. A locker will require an axel and drive flange upgrade. The LSD will work with existing equipment but upgraded drive flanges could be a good idea.
My original P38 diff banged like a dunny door. I didn't realise how unusual it was until I swapped it out for a Salisbury with a Detroit no spin auto locker. It really was quite a contrast. So I will most likely take the P38 to a diff specialist to have it re-set or checked over at the very least.
If you fit a locker to your P38 it will make it quieter if the back lash is set correctly.

[Drover]

Hey Gasman,

In about 4 to 6 weeks, Ashcroft will release their full drop in replacement diff centre for the P38 Defender diff.

All of the issues of the current P38 centre - lash, pinion bearings to close together, insufficient contact between crown wheel and pinion gear and premature failing will be cured.

Hip hip for that

A bonus it will come with Ashcroft's air locker.

If you want to read more search "life of puma rear diff"

Cheers

[justinc]

Don't forget that they have other areas of problems, too. Front differential crosspin, transfer case intermediate shaft and centre differential lack of preload (from new ), and even the spud shaft from the gearbox to transfer case input flogging out the splines due to incorrect hardening, plus axle drive flanges front and rear.

just sayin'...

jc