Slowly stripping for cleanup.
Before and after soaking for a few days in molasses and water.
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Last week, I bought an old 1501 that is in dire need of restoration. It runs and seems OK except for cosmetics. It's been stored in a garage for many years. I've been applying WD40 and penetrating oil in a number of places hoping to free stuff up.
However, having been hunting around the 'net, I've found views that make me wonder if I've done the right thing or that I should have bought a sliding combination mitre saw - especially as I have a table saw (a Ryobi BT3100K with the accessory kits)
I'll be honest, I bought the RAS as I've lusted after one ever since I saw them many years ago in Popular Mechanics and Popular Science - and it was much cheaper than a good SCMS.
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Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Slowly stripping for cleanup.
Before and after soaking for a few days in molasses and water.
![]()
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
The aluminium blade guard was scraped and wire-brushed, not put in molasses.
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Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Wow, that's a golden oldie Ron, and built in the era when things were made to last too.
Ron,
I think that RAS can actually be spun around on the arm to 90* which allows you to rip sheets. I can't do that on my CSMS. Most of the time I could get away with a chop saw. I would not knock back that RAS, it is metal and probably infinitely more repairable than any modern plastic one use tool.
In the days when B&D made professional stuff it was worth buying... looks like you might have gotten yourself a "keeper" Ron as it wan't "new" when you bought it...previous threads notwithstanding
PS: gotta lurve the reference to the "pink pages" on the manuf plate!
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
A couple of the blade guard extensions before and after molasses treatment:
![]()
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Yes, it can. However, mine is missing the rip anti-kickback pawl. I'll have to make one. Some claim it is dangerous to rip.
Would you believe there is a DeWalt RAS forum - I've joined it and I've found abaddonxi from this forum is/was a member (he has a 7740).
The saw has remarkably little wear for something that is at least 50 years old. It's still tight as a drum.
Yes, thank goodness it wasn't new! And I did the see the Pink Pages ref.
I did a search on the 'net and new DW721 RAS are $4750 jn Aus! I paid $225 for this 1501.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
G'day Ron,,
Doing up old machinery is a bit of a cool hobby I'd like to take up when my sheds right. Actually spotted a very old pump motor out in a paddock yesterday which I'm debating as to whether I might try and obtain.
But I have a quickie for you, what's with the Molasses/water treatment?
Cheers Chops
Do it, Chops. I have an old Advance lathe for restoration, too. It was made in the Fifties in Kilsyth. I use it but I should really should strip it down and repaint it.
Re molasses, see Getting Rid of Rust
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
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