Replacement high-beam globes for bi-xenon

[phl]

I'm thinking of replacing the H7 globes in the high beam with something brighter; has anyone tried using the 65W Osram or the 80W Philips instead of installing driving lights? I wonder if the high beam has enough of a pencil beam pattern for distance use.

[baldivistribe]

Sounds good to me let us know how you get on.
Cheers
Steve

[gghaggis]

I installed the Phillips CrystalVision (?) globes. They work very well.

Cheers,

Gordon

[joel0407]

I can highly recommend fitting HID ballists and Globes to dedicated high beam lights.

I dont recommend it for H4 type bulbs that use the same reflector and bulb for both high and low beam because the low beam never works out right and you end up with low beam blinding people.

I had a 2005 WRX which had seperate relfectors and bulbs for both high and low beams. I replace the high beam bulbs (H7 from memory) with HID bulbs. The kit cost me about $250 back then but you can buy the same for under $50 these days. Worked fantastic. You will not get close to this much light with standard halogen bulbs. I beleive it's as good and halogen head lights with halogen driving lights.

The only down side I saw was the bulbs take 10 seconds or so to warm up so you couldn't really flash high beam lights to warn of police radar or a hazard of some sort ahead.

Just my recommendation

Happy Days.

[phl]

Gordon,

Were the Philips the 55W unit or the 80W unit? If they were the 55W units, did you find them bright enough to eliminate the need for driving lights?

Joel,

Are the HID 35W or 55W? I already have 35W in the low beam, which are un-shuttered for high anyway, so want something different.

[joel0407]

Joel,

Are the HID 35W or 55W? I already have 35W in the low beam, which are un-shuttered for high anyway, so want something different.

What do you mean un-shuttered? I have a Skoda Yeti with factory HID lights. A mechanical shutter just opens and closes for high and low beam. Is that what you mean?

[joel0407]

If you have the mechanical shutter thing going on for factory high/low beam. I am pretty disapointed with my Skoda lights. I was advise to get the optional Bi-Xenons because the standard Halogens were not that good.

The HIDs I fitted to the dedicated high beam in the WRX would have blown the Skoda Bi-Xenons out of the water.

Vehicle wise, my Skoda Yeti replaced the WRX and the Disco 2 is suposed to be the spare but since I'm up on the km on the Skoda and it's a lease car the Disco is getting a work out.

Happy Days.

[Graeme]

I fitted 55W HID to my D4's high beam. Once the possum light feature was normalised I removed the HID-converted driving lights because they provided virtually no visibility improvement.

[101RRS]

Joel and others - in the D3/RRS with Bi Xenons the high beam is provided by a shuttered H7 HID globe in the outer (projector position). The inner position (which people think is the high beam) is just a Halogen beam to fill in the dark spots in the Bi Xenon High beam. In the non Bi Xenon lights the projector position is a non shuttered H7 low beam Halogen and the inner is the Hi Beam halogen H7.

My car is not Bi xenon so I do not know how putting HIDs or the new hi light output Halogens will go as Hi beam is already being provided by the Bi Xenon but I do have HIDs in the low beam of my car and HIDs in the high beam and high beam is a lot better than the halogens but as mentioned unlike shuttered HIDs which are on all the time, mine do take about 10secs to come to full brilliance which can be a pain - I am looking at replacing them with 4300k super bright Halogens which should be as good as the HIDs and light up immediately.

Garry

[phl]

What do you mean un-shuttered? I have a Skoda Yeti with factory HID lights. A mechanical shutter just opens and closes for high and low beam. Is that what you mean?

Yes, that's exactly what I mean; when you hit high beam, the shutter opens as well as the H7 is lit.