Your jacking procedure

[Magraith]

I have a lightweight trolly jack that does not have a huge amount of height on it.

Just wondering if there is anything to be aware of whilst jacking? The guy down at the local tyre shop reckons you lower the car to access mode and lock it out then jack up on the "dedicated jacking" points?

This seems to contradict the method in the boot instructions which ask you to put the car in the "highest" mode then jack? Tried this and my jack ran out off height.. Appreciate any advice.

[101RRS]

Raise the car as high as possible and then jack - saves a lot of jacking. If you lower to access height you will have a lot, lot, lot of jacking to do.

Locking at access height may stop height movements when driving slowly but does not actually lock the suspension as such. Jacking from that position means the body will go up and up using up all the downward travel of the suspension before the wheel lifts off.

Garry

[Graeme]

At home I use a light-weight trolley jack on concrete under the lower shock mount in the wishbones with the vehicle at normal height and the main suspension fuse removed.

[Steve223]

sorry to hijack, I want to buy a trolley jack but most jacks are just 1.5 tons do you have a +3 Ton jack or use one with less capacity?

the +3 ton one cost over $600 so trying to avoid that

[WhiteD3]

I follow the manual. Put the car in off road height, open the driver's door, chock the wheels and use a 3 stage bottle jack to lift her up at the jacking points. I had some adapters made to allow the head of the jack to lock into the chassis at the jacking point.

Re the 3 ton issue; you are not jacking 3 ton, just some of it.

[discotwinturbo]

sorry to hijack, I want to buy a trolley jack but most jacks are just 1.5 tons do you have a +3 Ton jack or use one with less capacity?

the +3 ton one cost over $600 so trying to avoid that

I use an old1.8tonne trolley jack.
Works well.
Brett....

[discotwinturbo]

I follow the manual. Put the car in off road height, open the driver's door

I followed that initially but with the car hissing once you start to wind up was not comforting. I know when it hisses once, it won't do it on the next wheel.

Pull the fuse and no hissing.....which I hope is a good thing.

Brett....

[JamesH]

Does the manual say where and which fuse to pull? I'm off on a long trip and better familiarise myself.

[Graeme]

Its the 20A engine bay suspension fuse. For a D4 its the 3rd from the front in the outside row. This is the primary suspension system supply and is the only one used to operate the valve solenoids. The other engine bay suspension fuse (5A) is only a feedback from the compressor supply relay so that the suspension ecu knows that the relay's contacts are closed, with the smallest standard fuse (5A) case of a wiring short between the fuse panel and the suspension ecu. The cabin 5A fuse is an ignition supply which will supply power to the suspension ecu if the primary fuse is out but then only used to report a suspension system failure and generate constant beeping to annoy anyone in the vehicle.

[jonesy63]

sorry to hijack, I want to buy a trolley jack but most jacks are just 1.5 tons do you have a +3 Ton jack or use one with less capacity?

the +3 ton one cost over $600 so trying to avoid that

Steve - check out the Repco catalogue. I got the Pro Lift 2000kg model when it was on sale for about $89 (it is in the catalogue at the moment for $129). They have a smaller 2000kg one there for $89 - that might even do you.
Cheers,
Rob