Setting SIII rear springs

[sandie]

My SIII has had new bushes and shocks, and I'm struggling to re-set the rear leaf springs.

I've read the green book and Haines, and lack the tools to compress the springs to the correct distance before tightening up

I can attached a sheet of ply and load up the chassis with cement backs to replicate the tub, but would prefer to re-set before I put the body back on.

Any tips?

Many thanks
Richard

[sandie]

G'day again

Still struggling with the re-set of the rear springs. Worked out how to compress the springs (i.e. read the green manual, when all else fails, read the instructions dummy!) but now not sure what equipment I'm working with.

I've replaced all the shocks with Monroes to original specs, but the rears are virtually at the end of their extension travel. I know they'll compress when I get the springs properly set, but I'm worried about my shackles.

I haven't changed the rear shackles since I bought Sandie and I'm worried it might have been fitted with the extension shackles, in which case
1. would I need different shocks
2. what is the correct spring setting distance

I guess the only way to be sure is if someone could answer the above, and also give me the dimensions of the original and the extension shackles. At least that way I'll know which I have.

Thanks for any help
Richard

[incisor]

i believe that standard 109 SIII shackles have 100mm centers and the extended shackles have 125mm centers.

[sandie]

OK, thanks a lot for that. I'll measure them tonight when I get home.

Does this mean if I set my springs at the upper end of the range stated in the manual I should be OK?

What about the shocks, will they cope with the extra extension?

[sandie]

G'day again. Still trying to set the springs on the mighty Sandie.

Have measured my shackles and they're 100mm centres, so apparently standard. Currently the measurement from top of u bolt to chassis is about 285mm (the new Monroes are virtually at their full extension)
and the green bible says to compress to 185 before tightening.

That's fine, except I can't get the thing to move that far. Tried using a trolley jack and chain as per the book and could only get to 220mm. Then tried a baulk of timber up to the concrete roof and compressing with a jack, got to 235mm.

Anyone got any ideas?

Surely it can't be this flamin' hard?

I'm wondering if my springs are shot, and/or whether I shouldn't remove the shocks to try and get the compression I need to set the springs.

Any suggestions welcome as this is really frustrating me and slowing the project down

Richard

[Phoenix]

Are you certain that you have the right leaves, and that they aren't too heavily sprung?

[sandie]

yeah, you've gotta sorta think something like that don't ya?

I have no reason to think they're not standard and can confirm the bushes etc that were in it when I bought it were LR standard.

Anyone know how I can check?

Is there a serial number or a part number that is on the springs somewhere?

Richard

[UncleHo]

Hi Sandie
The only part No's that I have on series 2a & 3 109 rear springs springs are
PETROL Drivers Side R279678 (also DIESEL)
PETROL PassengSide R279679 (also DIESEL)

The 1 TON (as fitted to Aus Military 109 Rovers) are R535173 both sides

The Station Wagon was fitted with 8x2 rear srrings that being 8 thin leaf fairly curved springs and 2 thicker and straighter bottom leaves (so when lightly loaded to give softer ride and when fully loaded the heaver leaves took the load.


The best practice if the vehicle is mobile is to leave the shackle bolts untightened and take it for a drive around the paddock or around the block then tighten the shackle bolts and the lock nuts if in dought about the shocks disconnect tnem for the bedding-in drive :wink:

[sandie]

Thanks Rocket, that's very useful. Presumably the part numbers are stamped on the springs somewhere; any idea where as I haven't been able to spot anything so far.

I do have 8 leaves so your info is a help, but does this mean different dimensions when setting them. In the green bible the distance "b" from chassis to top of ubolt is 162mm, but I can't get near that.

With the heavier springs, do I risk damage if I set at the best distance I can get which is about 205mm. Sandie is under rebuild so I want to set them before all the bits go back on, so I can't do the bumpy drive thing yet

Richard

[UncleHo]

Hi Sandie,
My "Green Bible" is the Haynes Manual 1977 Print and in chapter 11 on page 153 para 13 smear the spring leaves and bushes with graphite grease before assembly(optional) refit the shackle plates and spring to the vehicle using the reverse procedure to removal, But do not tighten any of the shackle pin nuts at this stage
Para 14 after the springs are correctly installed, refit the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground, rock the vehicle from side to side to settle the springs and then fully tighten the shackle pin lock nuts.

This is the same wording in the 1988 print book BUT the 88 print has a supplement in the back this deals with later series 3 (post 1979 5 bearing crankshaft models that had various mechanical changes including suspension these models were never imported to Australia, so the springs fitted to all series 3's are the same as series 2a they were Australian Made as part of the Aust Content Requirements

On checking my Genuine Rover Workshop Manual P/n R606408 the procedure is the same as the Haynes exept that it is more vague as it it written for Rover Trained mechanics who knew the procedure [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]