Replacing clutch master?

[apsilon]

Hi all,

Had my clutch master go on the way home the other day. Luckily I was only 2 streets from home.

Anyway I've just had a quick look at the workshop manual to check what was involved and it started talking about removing the pedal assembly, the wing etc etc to get it out. Now given where the clutch master sits am I missing something? Is there a reason I can't just pull the top cover off and remove it?

I've decided to do the slave and hose at the same time as a bit of preventive maintenance so any tips or gotchas re those would be appreciated as well.

Thanks.

[incisor]

you can if you have 7" long rubber fingers [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

you just undo the 6 odd bolts, then twist and separate.

it is wayyyyyy easier to remove the pedal assembly take my word for it....

gives you a good chance to clean up the firewall under the pedal mount as well.

dont forget to seal it with a gasket or silastic when you put it back.

the slave cylinder is an easy task.... well almost [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

[apsilon]

Thanks. I can see why removing the pedal might make things easier. Anyway parts didn't arrive today as I'd hoped so it'll be put off for a week.

Hasn't been a good week for me mechanically. This was the second part failure on the Landy and my mountain bike doesn't want to play either.

[Phoenix]

Mountain bikes tend (not always) to be more cooperative than landys.

Less things to go wrong I guess. What bike do you ride?

I'm on a Giant ATX 850. No disc brakes, but it does ok.

[apsilon]

Right now an old Apollo Kosciusko. I haven't even got a front shock let alone disc brakes [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

Thinking of upgrading to something a bit more modern. Had to drop the bike off at the shop, I couldn't figure out why it was acting up, skipping gears and not allowing me to select the full range of gears. Was fine last time I rode. When I pick it up tomorrow I might see what they'd offer me for a trade in.

[Phoenix]

Don't mean to sound like i'm lecturing you, but there are 2 screws that you adjust, and it is all good again. Usually it gets out of place because the cables stretch.

Easy and cheap to fix, done it dozens of times myself.

Ive been doing landys for 2 years, and bikes for ...... well since I was able to ride a bike, so some time ago. Better at bikes than cars, that's me [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

[apsilon]

Yeah I know how to adjust it but this time couldn't get anywhere with it which is why I think there's something else wrong. Even had a friend's dad look at that's been riding for as long as I've known him and he couldn't figure it out either.

[Rovernaut]

Am I missing something here, What sort of vehicle are we talikg about and what year. I did my Disco clutch master and it was an easy job. :?:

[apsilon]

Whoops, sorry. Haven't setup a sig yet.

'75 Series III 88" but the last couple of posts were OT.

[UncleHo]

Hi Apsilon, [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
If you have the W/shop manual pay special attn to the pedal shaft -to-cylinder clearance .010 in and the pedal-to-floor height, makes life so much more pleasent when it is all set up correctly, wise move doing the slave and flex hose( P/nRTC 5940 " hose slave jump" was about $28.50 last Oct,) also check the condition of the steel pipe,if in doubt replace it as they can take in air but not show signs of leaking :wink: