Cleaned Sedimenter - should I be concerned?

[uninformed]

I just cleaned my sedimenter that I removed and replaced with a CAV type filter/housing.

Not a lot of gunk but would be only 20K since last clean. Its the black slimey stuff, that looks like shiney rubber and breaks up in my fingers that has me worried. IS it diesel snot? What are the chances of it being in the tank?

see picture (white stuff is paint on the timber work bench)

[uninformed]

I take it by the lack of response that there is nothing to worry about?

[Lorryman100]

That is bio slime and is unfortunately a common problem in the uk due to the use of 5% bio diesel mixed in at the pumps. It has led to many an issue on Puma engined defenders with blocked filter ports, damaged VCV's and blocked fuel lines. I keep it at bay by using a diesel additive every few months as this seems to kill the slime. I use Forte diesel treatment but others use the Millers additive with the same result.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic24704.html
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15298.html

[rar110]

I just cleaned my sedimenter that I removed and replaced with a CAV type filter/housing....

This is a side issue in response to above.

In preparation for a big trip I did this same mod but with a Racor filter. With the change of conditions (fuel & corrugations) a lot more water & junk came through and blocked the filter. I carried a spare which also blocked. I had to clean both with petrol and reuse until Alice. I couldn't buy another filter.

The sedimenter would have trapped all or the majority of these larger particles/water and then easily cleaned. I've now refitted the sedimenter and put an in line filter after the sedimenter. I will probably refit the Racor filter after the sedimenter at some stage. That way if I can't buy a filter I can easily bipass it and concert back to normal factory set up.

[dromader driver]

i agree about the fuel fungus/gunk. the sedimenter is doing it's job as the fuel fungus grows on the fuel/water interface. just clean it more often and buy quality fuel. a fuel biocide can also assist. the disposable filters from superexpensiveauto's are also worth installing as a throw away instead of blocking a $30 main filter on a trip.

[Blknight.aus]

smear some of it down some matt paper with your finger.

if it forms tendrils its diesel snot and yes, its time to worry about it. it will be everywhere dropping dewatering cleaning and blowing out every component of the fuel system is potentially on the cards along with a dose of snot killer.

if its breaks up and leaves very fine particles then its carbon residue, normally gotten from injector blow by or blending your old unfiltered sump oil into the diesel

[uninformed]

That is bio slime and is unfortunately a common problem in the uk due to the use of 5% bio diesel mixed in at the pumps. It has led to many an issue on Puma engined defenders with blocked filter ports, damaged VCV's and blocked fuel lines. I keep it at bay by using a diesel additive every few months as this seems to kill the slime. I use Forte diesel treatment but others use the Millers additive with the same result.

Defender2 - View topic - Contaminated fuel
Defender2 - View topic - Engine power loss and Pre 14th October 2009 faulty ECU's

Bio slime? is that the same as diesel snot?

I have no idea if they are adding "bio diesel" to our regular diesel here? In fact Im pretty sure I can only buy one type of diesel here on the Gold Coast. Im not sure if Caltex "Vortex" diesel is any different or just a bloody name.

What are you Oz guys running as additives in your diesels?

[uninformed]

This is a side issue in response to above.

In preparation for a big trip I did this same mod but with a Racor filter. With the change of conditions (fuel & corrugations) a lot more water & junk came through and blocked the filter. I carried a spare which also blocked. I had to clean both with petrol and reuse until Alice. I couldn't buy another filter.

The sedimenter would have trapped all or the majority of these larger particles/water and then easily cleaned. I've now refitted the sedimenter and put an in line filter after the sedimenter. I will probably refit the Racor filter after the sedimenter at some stage. That way if I can't buy a filter I can easily bipass it and concert back to normal factory set up.

I also looked at Racor, they make very good products. I could not get there website to open? and given they have literally hundreds of different options, I had no idea which to buy? The other thing was that it seemed the classic "296" filter is readily available pretty much across Oz, but I figured the Racor a bit harder to come by, especially if heading away from the coast line. Not sure of the Racor set up, but it seems you can run the CAV type either way. That is, filter first and separator second, or vise versa. If you run the filter first, you will get a better job but less filter life. Not sure if you can run your Racor backwards or if it would make any difference.

The other thing to consider is the filter itself. Any idea what micron the Racor filters down to? and how that compares to the "296" (I have no idea on either)

[uninformed]

smear some of it down some matt paper with your finger.

if it forms tendrils its diesel snot and yes, its time to worry about it. it will be everywhere dropping dewatering cleaning and blowing out every component of the fuel system is potentially on the cards along with a dose of snot killer.

if its breaks up and leaves very fine particles then its carbon residue, normally gotten from injector blow by or blending your old unfiltered sump oil into the diesel

Dave, unfortunately I tend to clean things up pretty quick. I wiped that down after the pic. I may be able to find it in my shop bin. By "tendrils" do you mean little spirals?

If you look at the pic, the main piece off to the right with nothing else on it, has 2 smaller pices above it. Those smaller pieces are how it broke off as I rubbed it between my fingers.

[isuzurover]

Bio slime? is that the same as diesel snot?

I have no idea if they are adding "bio diesel" to our regular diesel here? In fact Im pretty sure I can only buy one type of diesel here on the Gold Coast. Im not sure if Caltex "Vortex" diesel is any different or just a bloody name.

What are you Oz guys running as additives in your diesels?

Slime (algae/microbial growth) existed long before biodiesel use and is largely unrelated. Biodiesel is partially oxygenated though, which may help it grow.

All diesel in AU can have 5% bio without labelling, as it helps lubricity. There is a french study of long term (100% bio) use in a whole fleet which included commonrail diesels. At the end they pulled the engines down and the bio engines were as good or better.

Your diesel on the GC comes either from the caltex refinery or the BP refinery in Brisbane. It is unlikely any NSW fuel crosses the border.

As for your problem. Put some diesel fuel treatment (biocide) in the tank and all will be good.