Ball joint separator

[rdenyer]

Holiday project to replace lower front ball joints, replacing lower control arms.
Got all the parts.
Checked tools
Started work - Ball joint separator tool is too small!
Anyone know where in Sydney I can purchase a Ball joint separator that opens to 70 - 80 mm - the one I have only goes to 50 mm.
Have tried hitting joint with large hammer with out luck.
Do not really want to use "fork" style separator as they tend to damage the rubber .

Thanks in Advance.

Richard

[Graeme]

Whilst I haven't tried a D3 ball joint, in general if force is applied with a jack trying to push the bolt out then a few sharp hits on the end of the arm to spring the hole out of round usually does the trick. This method has always worked for me.

[rdenyer]

Thanks Graeme, excellent suggestion, worked a treat !
Now to get on with the replacement

[haydent]

THANKS !!! I had tried hitting the right spot with back of wood splitter, but seemed no luck, was waiting to watch the lower arm drop to the nut, was ready to give up but read here, put the jack underneath and found it had already separated, its just the lower arm was being pushed down more by suspension than the knuckle/hub could fall....

[Eric SDV6SE]

I've found that with IS if you jack the wishbones to approximate ride height and hit the end of the ball joint stud with the nut wound nearly off they almost always come out straight away. They are a taperseat, the nut is sacrificial, when at full droop, there is always side loading on the taper and that's why they don't cone out. whereas hitting a forging or casting with a hammer is not ideal in my view..

Oh, and SCA sells a ball joint splitter kit from Toledo that has about 5 different splitters in it for 120 bucks,the second smallest one fits.

[Gravy]

Holiday project to replace lower front ball joints, replacing lower control arms.
Got all the parts.
Checked tools
Started work - Ball joint separator tool is too small!
Anyone know where in Sydney I can purchase a Ball joint separator that opens to 70 - 80 mm - the one I have only goes to 50 mm.
Have tried hitting joint with large hammer with out luck.
Do not really want to use "fork" style separator as they tend to damage the rubber .

Thanks in Advance.

Richard

9 out of 10 you can separate a ball joint using two block hammers, one held firmly against the face of the joint, the other striking the 180 degree opposed face of the joint.

[haydent]

yes i saw that sca kit and wondered about that, but seems not needed. re comment on hitting forged, you suggesting hitting nut instead ? I even saw a youtube of someone holding one hammer with the ball in the indent of the ball joint bolt, and then hitting that hammer with another hammer. didnt feel great about the flat spots i left on the knuckle so will be looking at alternative methods for the other side.

[Eric SDV6SE]

yes i saw that sca kit and wondered about that, but seems not needed. re comment on hitting forged, you suggesting hitting nut instead ? I even saw a youtube of someone holding one hammer with the ball in the indent of the ball joint bolt, and then hitting that hammer with another hammer. didnt feel great about the flat spots i left on the knuckle so will be looking at alternative methods for the other side.

Yep, hit the nut,make sure it has no threads sticking through as otherwise you may not get the nut off. All you need is to unseat the taper.

Your new ball joint should have a new nut with it, so it doesn't matter if you damage the existing nut.