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Thread: DRIVING STYLE WITH LOADED ROOF RACK

  1. #1
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    DRIVING STYLE WITH LOADED ROOF RACK

    I've had my roof rack off for the last month and coincidentally had the opportunity to get to some local 4WD tracks during that time. Now i have my roof rack repaired and back on, I can notice the considerable difference it makes to COG and was wandering how wild some of you guys have gone when it comes to tracks you drive, with a loaded or unloaded roof rack. Or are they purely meant to be used for touring vehicles avoiding the big undulated stuff.

    Thoughts please.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    I have always considered that minimal is best for roof racks - eg mine was a set of 4 rhino HD cross bars fitted with an alloy panel - all very light. The only stuff that goes up there is also light - no hi lift jack (thats kept down low) or fuel or water cans and no full spare wheel - only a carcass at most. Most of the time only had the side awning and a poly tube for tent poles and long handled shovel up there, so minimal effect on COG. On an extended trip I might put a space case (light) up there with my recovery gear - straps, gloves, etc - and ropes and occy straps, spare hoses and belt, again all light stuff. Cheers.

  3. #3
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    cetnre of gravity control

    my worst case was to put a steel staircase on the ute racks to take it to the galvanisers. Was wet, rainy and I was coming off night shift.

    In short keep as much weight off the roof rack as possible. The early Defa's with no sway bar are a very exciting ride and they do not steer well on 2 or 3 wheels.

    If you want to work it out, take the seat height and divide by the roof rack height then multiply by about 86 kgs. this will give you an equivalent weight for each seat. Probably a max of about 100kg evenly distributed front to back including the rack mass is safe. 86 is an average adult passenger weight in some industries.

  4. #4
    BigBlackDog Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by dromader driver View Post
    86 is an average adult passenger weight in some industries.
    But only if your plane has more than 6 seats

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by voltron View Post
    Or are they purely meant to be used for touring vehicles avoiding the big undulated stuff.
    Not even that... Roof racks are to be avoided at all costs, especially when touring.

    Firstly, you've noticed the difference it makes to the CoG but the bodyshell isn't designed to take any weight. 75kg or 150kg (depending on which revision of the manual you read).

    You should see the stress fractures if you run a roofrack on corrugations.

    M

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by camel_landy View Post
    Not even that... Roof racks are to be avoided at all costs, especially when touring.

    Firstly, you've noticed the difference it makes to the CoG but the bodyshell isn't designed to take any weight. 75kg or 150kg (depending on which revision of the manual you read).

    You should see the stress fractures if you run a roofrack on corrugations.

    M
    No experience with Defender roof racks, but in all my previous 4WD touring with Land Cruisers (75 and 80 series) and Nissan (GQ Patrol) I too have avoided any roof rack.

    I try to be as minimalist as possible and limit equipment to what can fit into the load space. (I appreciate this can be extremely difficult, even impossible, for some folks, especially with a family to cater for).

    If you must have one, I would seriously be ruthless with limiting its use to very lightweight items only. Say, bulky lightweight stuff like a couple of swags.

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    I used to have a 2A wagon that had a full length roof rack and there were cracks in the firewall and around the rear side windows (Probably why the Defenders went to rounded edge windows).

    I have a roof top tent and with that on two Rola bars it feels heavy enough. I see people with a full length rack with rtt and tyre/hi lift/jerries etc and think it must be interesting in corners, let alone off road.





    Yes, you do feel it, but just have be mindful like you do normally on side slopes.

    As for not putting jerries up top, an old desert traveller told me, at least they empty and usually before the rough stuff, where tyres are the same weight all trip. Not something i have tried, but the other way is inside or lots of money on a long range tank.

    Jeff


  8. #8
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by camel_landy View Post
    Not even that... Roof racks are to be avoided at all costs, especially when touring.

    Firstly, you've noticed the difference it makes to the CoG but the bodyshell isn't designed to take any weight. 75kg or 150kg (depending on which revision of the manual you read).

    You should see the stress fractures if you run a roofrack on corrugations.

    M
    While I certainly agree in large part, it seems there's plenty of evidence to suggest that they can handle a (lightly loaded), appropriately designed, roof rack.

    Certainly don't like being loaded though, and they get rolly too!

  9. #9
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    I have a RTT on mine, when touring I carry either 2 or 3 Jerries, and on our upcoming trip, I'll also have a double swag and a tent aswell.

    Cornering at speeds the only downside, and I find when out on the tracks, the extra weight (of the whole vehicle) makes for a nice ride
    In the bush, the biggest problem seems to be height. Very easy to get caught up in branches etc.
    Shane and Deb (Disco 3 door) might like to pipe up here,, they rode with us over at Melrose last year up one of the tracks where we lifted a leg a couple of times. Myself, I felt more than comfy, but they might have a different opinion of it being passengers, in a high loaded vehicle.

  10. #10
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    I used to have the mother of all roof rack fitted, rack alone was 120kg........

    I now have a light weight wind cheetah

    I don't stress too much....if I need to chuck stuff than i do, I don't really modify my driving whether its full or empty

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