I don't know what screws P38s have but have many a time used a centre punch on counter-sunk Phillips head brake drum screws of old British vehicles.
Something I learnt years ago.
For instance the disc rotors on a P38 have locating screws, these can be the devil of a job to get out.
So each time that you rotate the wheels or remove a wheel for any reason, take the time to remove these locating screws and either cover them with a bit of axle grease or anti sieze.
Works in all sorts of areas and saves blood pressure and skinned knuckles later on as you can bet that at some stage you will want to undo it.
Well anyway.
I don't know what screws P38s have but have many a time used a centre punch on counter-sunk Phillips head brake drum screws of old British vehicles.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
They usually come out with an impact driver and hammer.
But yes, agreed, always use antisieze of some description when replacing them.
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
I threw them out and went countersunk Allen Bolts...
They bite harder and dont suffer stripping like the Phillips heads...
Also fit them with anti-sieze and then smear silastic over the front and back to keep moisture out.
Just throw them in the bin the wheel does a pretty good job of holding them on!
Agree in principle, but if a wheel comes even slightly loose the result can be uglier than if they are retained
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