Tim does sell specific D3, D4 and Range Rover kits with the SC80, so I would very much assume that the SC80 is suitable.
Hi all,
We had our 4wd club meeting at Battery Business in Warriewood, it was very interesting with a discussion about the newer vehicles having variable voltage alternators.
Variable Voltage Alternators
Some vehicles released in late 2010 onwards with common rail diesel and petrol engines have variable voltage alternators that are on the vehicle CANBUS. These alternators vary output based on driving conditions at the time. The range of voltage can be between 12.3V and 15V For this reason, the alternator may not charge a dual or multi auxilary battery bank at all times, and may apply too high a voltage for the auxliary battery chemistry type at other times.
Known vehicles with this style of alternator - Nissan Navara D40, R51 Pathfinder 2011 onwards V6 Diesel only. Hyundai Santa Fe 2010 +, Range Rover 4 2011 +, Ford Ranger 2011 +, Pajero 2012 +, Mazda BT-50 2011 + and Land Rover Disco 4, Isuzu D-Max 2012.
This question is probably best answered by Tim / Drivesafe.
Is the standard SC80 suitable for the latter model D4 / RRS?
2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64
Tim does sell specific D3, D4 and Range Rover kits with the SC80, so I would very much assume that the SC80 is suitable.
This variable voltage design concept appears to have been around for a few years now, but only on select vehicles, our 3's and now the 4's being part of that advanced group. VW Phaetons and the Bentley are as well.
It seems these electrical systems are characterized by what is called Pulse Width Modulated signals from the engine computer, (really the car computer), telling the alternator and associated loads what to do. It seems to be an emissions related thing; rather than increase alternator output, the radio amplifier will be told to go to sleep or perhaps the heated seats cycled - load management it is called.
The looser in all this seems to be the battery; charging it seems to be last on the list or priorities, hence why a dual battery system seems to be a requirement, not a luxury.
I think the Traxide people were in the forefront of realizing the unusual characteristics of the 3's electrical system and hence their units are designed to accommodate the peculiarities of CaCa battery's and their related PWM charging systems.
Volkswagens solution is to provide a "free" CTEK charger with every Bentley, at least over here anyway, along with instructions to use it monthly, and better yet, weekly.
The design is showing up on garden variety Ford pickups here now as well - seemed to be a Ford and VW thing initially.
After reading various threads over the last several months I have been wondering whether to fit a Traxide system to my 4 month old D4 but don't have any auxiliary requirements - fridge etc. My concern is not to be left stranded. Are they a nice to have or a must have?
Drivesafe, I know you sell them, but I would appreciate your input.
Martin
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Exactly the reason I put mine in, 6 month old D4 stranded with a flat battery. So just for peace of mind I installed the Traxide US160 with jump start. I now know that that with a flat cranking battery I can still get it started. Easy to install, took me an hour.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...4717-copy-.jpg
Hi folks and sorry for taking so long to reply but I am flat out with orders ( and behind ).
The reason I mentioned to the orders situation is because more and more “OTHER” makes are finding my system allows good charging of all batteries connected to the vehicles electrics.
Hi Rich and I bet the company was advising the installation of DC/DC devices to supposedly “correct” a problem that doesn’t actually exist in most new vehicle.
Here is some info you can take back to your club.
All new Nissans have variable voltage operation, BUT all you need to do is go to the back of the alternator and find the loom with a number of thin wires coming out of it.
One of these wires is GREEN, simply come out a bit from the alternator and cut that green wire. The Nissan alternator will now operate at a constant 14.0 - 14.2v at all time.
Pajaros, BT-50s, Colorados, Amaroks, Toyotas and all Land Rovers will have no problems charging and maintaining banks of batteries when using one of my isolators.
There is a bit of a catch with the Toyotas. Anything between late 2009 to early 2013 will most likely need an Alternator Voltage Booster Fuse, made by a guy in Melbourne.
From 2013, Toyota raised their operating voltage levels but they can still benefit from the addition of an Alternator Voltage Booster Fuse.
Rich, hope this is of some help to your club
It's standard. Read all about it here: USI-160 - 160 amp Winch Isolator | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV
Thanks Tim, yes that explains it perfectly.
You are at the forefront of your game.
2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64
Tim's stuff is all great I have wired up a abg25 cut out to my mates boat so that an alarm goes off when the house bank reaches 12v saving 3 batteries works perfectly.
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