At this stage, I would be inclined to fit a gauge to see what pressure you actually have & take it from there.
Started a new thread for this as my problem has returned....several weeks ago I noticed that my oil light would flicker/flash every 8 seconds when I am at a traffic light. this got worst to the point where it was happening even in Park every 3-4 seconds. I replaced the oil flight switch, did an engine flush, changed the oil at least 4 times and finally changed the oil pump. While I had the front cover off, I also cleaned and changed the o rings for the relief valves. This morning on my way to work the oil light was back, the engine starts and runs fine with no clatter or engine noise but this light is now driving me crazy. Short of making an adapter to check the oil pressure, can you guys think of anything that might be causing this?
Only other issue I have with the truck is a mis-fire on 5 and 7 and the down stream 02 sensor on bank 1 seem to be acting up, I have new plug wires and sensor to replace this weekend but doubt this has anything to do with my oil light issue.
At this stage, I would be inclined to fit a gauge to see what pressure you actually have & take it from there.
Scott
Hi
Yes I agree a pressure gauge is what you need now
Steve
I have to admit being almost at the same stage Burgundy.
After replacing the oil gears, and changing to a thicker oil with a new pressure switch I'm still getting the oil pressure light come on when it's below 600rpm.
Autobarn have oil filter sandwich plates for $70 - I picked one up the other day but havn't put the guage on yet.
If you decide to go through the oil pressure switch is 1/2" UNF (UNO really).
On mine I'm hoping it's a front cover problem as it was very heavily scored in the pump facing which can cause big problems apparently.
Best of luck!
Thanks for the replies guys.....Benji, thinking back I did notice some minor wear on the front cover but did not think it significant enough to cause this, guess I was wrong, will start there and see what happens. Might plumb a line for a manual gauge while I am there....ugh.
Thanks again guys, will let you know the outcome.
Mike
That makes two of us. Talking to dad last night he was saying that any scoring will have a huge effect on the pump. He had the same problem on an early 3.9 (different pump I know), it turned out that there was some scoring on the bottom plate. After that and some new gears it was perfect. My uncle also had the same problem on his 300tdi (same pump I believe). Again it turned out to be scoring on the pump, though it didn't seem to stave the engine of oil and produced good pressure at revs so he just left it. It went for 100'000's km like that - with no smoke.
Here's the fillet sandwich plate. They're made in Melbourne. They also had oil cooler adapters there, and the sales staff didn't know the difference. .....
Excellent, Benji. Do you have the part no. for the one you bought? Was it specified by oil filter, e.g., suits Ryco Z9?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
On the front cover of my MY2000 Thor 4.6 is a blanked off access port to the oil gallery. It sits below the pressure switch and is plugged with a hex head screw plug. It takes a M12 ( x 1.5mm) thread. Seems ready made to receive a screw-in electrical sender (with appropriate adapter) for an oil pressure gauge ... I discovered it when needing to prime the oil pump after the top end overhaul 18m ago... do the GEMS engines have a similar front cover... if so may preclude need for sandwich plate?
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Personal preference here, if I was to fit a backup gauge, it'd be mechanical rather than electric. Will always work when you want it to.
I run two mechanical gauges in my Torana (oil press and water temp).
Cheers
Keithy
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