Have eng. and Chas.#'s for Early Series 1

[Tank]

Finally got the series 1 home, didn't get to drive it on the trailer as you will see in the pics I am posting in this post. Seems the drongo that works for the bloke I bought the SI off decided to tow it out to make it easier to get at, guess he didn't realise how soft LR drag links are, see pic.
Anyway the engine # is 47109096, the Chassis #47662300 which was on the rear spring hanger bracket passenger side.
As you will see in the pics the chassis is in really good nick, will be taking the homemade canopy and wooden tray off and will refit ute tub back on, a toss up whether to put the roof that I already have on or not.
I will be restoring all of the engine and drivetrain (if needed), do the brakes and get the truck ready for rego. I will not be doing any body work or painting. I will more than likely sell this S. I, but I want it to be in running order fit for the road, otherwise it could sit in someone else's shed for years and end up getting scrapped.
So I will keep up with the pics during the work, can anyone help with the Numbers I have provided here as I would be interested in any more info, I can get, Thanks, Regards Frank.

[wrinklearthur]

1954 build, 86", C.K.D., R.H.D., Export

That chassis number. It looks like from the photo you found that on the Rear LHS spring hanger ?

I have Series ones here with a number in that position and another with it's number under the cutout in the radiator support panel, stamped into the top of the chassis rail.
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[Tank]

Thanks Arthur, do you know what engine it is from the engine #, it runs OK, Regards Frank.

[wrinklearthur]

The first digit in the engine number is also a 4 so tells us that engine was built in 1954, so probably it is original.

As it runs well, all it would most likely need would be replacement of the O-rings on the inlet valve stems as they would have gone hard and would cause it to smoke and use oil.

Thinking about it, replacement of all components made from rubber would be timely to do as they would have also gone hard, look at such things as the radiator hoses, water pump seal's, the flexible fuel line and the SU fuel pump diaphragm.

Warning! If the battery is dodgy don't park the Land Rover for a long time nose down hill ready for a roll start, as after a while the oil will make it's way forward, coming out of the oil return screw in the front of the gearbox and go all over the clutch plate.

Likewise, look at the seal at the back of the transferbox inside the hand brake as they were originally leather seals and would have gone hard, some small leaks there will drain down the outside of the hand brake's backing plate, so look to make sure the weep hole is clear.
.

[wrinklearthur]

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You can straighten those bent rods insitu, undo the clamps a bit and turn the rod with a pipe wrench so the bend then faces down, use a block of wood shaped to spread the load a bit on the radius of the bend ( that's to stop it kinking ) and a car jack.

Jack the rod back up into place, then rotate the rod back to it's original possy so to keep it's length right.
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[vnx205]

Looks good.

Where did you find room in your front yard to park that?

[Tank]

Allan, my Son moved his Falcon XR8 up to Canberra, so I have parked it where that was, Totally surprised by the lack of rust, seems that roof I bought when I bought the 109 ute body, to use as a lid for my home made trailer, is a roof and side panels for a Series I. So it might end up on this one, if you've nothing on tomorrow or whenever drop over and you can gives us a lift to sit the ute tub on.
Arthur, I'm afraid the rods have been bent to the point of kinking, I will see how they straighten, but I will probably have to replace them, Regards Frank.
P.S. BTW Arthur does the engine number have to match the chassis number for it to be original? Thanks.

[wrinklearthur]

P.S. BTW Arthur does the engine number have to match the chassis number for it to be original? Thanks.

Hi Frank,

As far as I am aware those numbers have always been out of kilter.

Cheers .