Freelander TD4 Harmonic Balancer Issue

[Tib64]

I had an interesting time with this one.

After a bit searching around I found that my wife's Freelander had a Harmonic Balancer issue.

OK so I purchased a new pulley (Harmonic Balancer) and decided to go ahead and change this baby today.

Gathered my tools:- 1/2 ratchet, 10 mm socket, 22 mm ring spanner, 24 mm ring spanner, 22 mm impact socket, 600 mm long breaker bar and my trusty light.

Grabbed the light, time to find the locking pin location or some way of stopping the crank from turning ... guess what ... ohh you guessed it ... nothing nada ziltch - what a surprise

Looking around a bit more I noticed that the front of the pulley has tabs on it - obviously for some kind of tool ... so of we go and search the internet for a tool ... guess what ... oh yes nothing again

So I thought stuff this I will make my own ... went off to Supercheap and purchased a 32 mm ring/open ended spanner, then went to Bunnings and purchased some kind of bracket - no idea what it is used for but looked like it will do the job

The bracket had a hole in the middle of it already that was just big enough for my 22 mm impact socket to fit through.

Now tools required to make this contraption:-

32 mm ring/open ended spanner - $20.00
a piece of metal approx 100 x 100 x 3 - 5 mm think $5.00 - mine was 3 mm but if I had to make it again I would use 5 mm thick plate.
grinder with a cutting blade on it
welder
felt pen
tape measure

1. I cut the folded bits off the bracket I purchased to make it flat.
2. Laid the metal onto of the new pulley and marked out where to cut the bits out for the tabs to protrude
3. Cut all the bits out and dressed it up not to cut myself open with it - damn thing almost looked like a ninga star that you throw at people
4. Once it all fits into the pulley lay it on top of the ring spanner, ring side and weld it to the spanner.
5. Dress up any weld that may stop the impact socket from freely going through the middle of the new tool.

Now that the tool is complete go and do the job.

I managed to undo the bolt - mind you I thought I was going to get a hernia trying to undo the damn thing.
Mental note - get a 1' pipe about 600 mm long to make the job easier
I also managed to do the bolt back up to the required tension - what a stupid way to tension a bolt though 100nm then 60deg + another 60deg and then another 30deg. Someone in the OEM factory must not of had a torque wrench that went up that high

Started the car and is nice and quiet again ... or as quiet as a diesel gets

Bellow are a few pics of my creation

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...psb95c3bcb.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps7cb8d2e6.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...psc172dd61.jpg

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...psfd8bcedf.jpg


Hope this helps people who also have issues.

If you live in Brisbane I can lend you the tool if you can not make one for yourself. Just leave a message for me.

[woko]

There is a locking pin for the timing. Without measuring it it would be about 10mm diameter. It fits in to the flywheel and the hole is located near the starter motor. It's a bugger to find as is between webbings from memory.

The tool you made pretty much the same as the service tool to do the job.

Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app

[Tib64]

Thanks for the info ... I will have a better look and keep it in mind if this ever happens again ... or I work on one again.