My 54 S I & pics with roof on.

[Tank]

Fitted the roof yesterday with the help of Allan (VNX 205), see pics, looks good.
Looks like I'll be needing some information and a few bits <see my wanted ad in the markets>

What were the devices are used to clamp the front of roof to top of windscreen?

Anyone know where to get rubbers and glass for side windows in canopy?

How do I fix leaking fuel tank or is there some method of sealing from inside by putting a substance into tank which will permanently seal it?

Any help will be appreciated, can contact me by PM, Email, Frank.Stanton@bigpond.com or mob. 0407103320, Thanks, Regards Frank.

[back_in]

Hi
guess this will keep you out of the Pub for a week or tooo
cheers
Ian

[wrinklearthur]

Brake Master Cylinder.

Use this link; Series 1 brake master cylinder

Master Cylinder Reservoir can.

Supply Tank Assembly for Master Cylinder, GI 3000522 W , Part Number 233206 . Do a google search for Land Rover 233206 , one of the results gives this link;

Land Rover Parts | LAND ROVER SERIES I PARTS

complete metal Brake lines.

My approach is to take the individual lines to a brake specialist, ABS or similar and they will make the replacements.

Rubbers and glass for side windows in canopy.

Glass and rubbers can be easily obtained from a business that deals with glass repairs to earth moving equipment.
Take a outline drawn on a piece of stiff cardboard, they can cut glass to match that pattern, a accurate measurement of the length and height helps to determine the amount the glass size needs to be reduced to allow for the thickness of the sealing rubbers.

Original bolts that secure canopy to ute tub.

Mounting Stud, fixing hard top to body, part number 302148
They can be also found on early series 2, watch that they have the correct thread and that is BSF. later 330762 has 5/16" UNF and mixing the thread types can drive you demented.
Again, new are available from;
Land Rover Parts: Mounting stud hard top plus truck cab., Genuine and Aternative Parts Series I

What ever devices are used to clamp the front of roof to top of windscreen.

I reckon there would be someone on this forum that should have those fittings and the appropriate bolts. Try Jim at Russell Rovers on this forum.

S.U. electric fuel pump.

Petrol Pump complete, SU AUA 58, 'L' type, part number 268374.

LAND ROVER SERIES 1 ONE FUEL PUMP OE PART NUMBER 268374 | eBay

Land Rover Body Fastener Kits, Spares, Land Rover Parts

Non leaking fuel tank or some method of sealing from inside by putting a substance into tank which will permanently seal it.

first Acetone to clean with, then Red-Kote to seal.

Fuel Tank and Radiator Service - Red-Kote® - Fuel Tank Liner

Also both front drag links,

Ball Joint Assembly, Right Hand Thread, part number 231183
Ball Joint Assembly, Left Hand Thread, part number 231184

Warning! there are subtle differences here between this and later ball joints, that can lead to having a nasty ending.
Watch also that the pipe for the drag link hasn't been replaced with the wrong one.
According to the parts manual the RH ball joint is fitted to the steering box arm for the longitudinal steering tube Assembly.
The Steering Track Rod Assembly, has the RH ball joint on the vehicles LHS.
The Steering Drag Link Assembly, has the RH ball joint on the vehicles RHS, fitted to the Relay lever, lower.

reco or new steering relay.

Steering Relay Complete Assembly, part number 232693.

Warning! If you restore one of these units, the parts in this are loaded with a strong spring, so make sure you follow the workshop manual carefully.

Hope that helps.
.

[Tank]

Arthur, your magic mate, where do you get all this info, that's incredible, I can't thank you enough, hope to be able to repay you someday.
Actually the ball joints are in good nick, it's the drag link tubes that are buggered, one is bent so far that it has squashed flat and kinked, fracturing the metal, the other has broken cleanly off where the ball joint thread stops, so I need to replace or make new ones. I have emailed Jim , I will try ringing him tonight.
I did a fruitless search on eBay and was starting to worry, the brake lines are the rustiest part of this S I, it surprised me how bad a condition they are in compared to the rest of the car.
Over the next few weeks I will be pulling the body off and cleaning up the chassis, it's amazing, the paint on the chassis still has its' lustre and only surface rust where it has been exposed to gravel rash, will take more pics as I progress, how do you like my little roof top. I bought this a few years back (not knowing what model it was off) with the intention of using the roof only as a lid for the top of a 109 SIII ute tub which I was going to fit to my army W/shop trailer chassis and use it to build into a camper trailer, good luck, eh, thanks again, Regards Frank.

[chazza]

... it's the drag link tubes that are buggered, one is bent so far that it has squashed flat and kinked, fracturing the metal, the other has broken cleanly off where the ball joint thread stops, so I need to replace or make new ones.

... the brake lines are the rustiest part of this S I, it surprised me how bad a condition they are in compared to the rest of the car.

If you make new steering rods, make sure you get them the right length, as they seem to vary from model to model - the ones on your car may be the wrong ones! Brian Hjelm has the taps for each end.

If there isn't a brake place near you, the pipes are easy to make using bundy tube; a double-flaring tool; a good bender for tight radii and thumbs and fingers for the rest of it,

Cheers Charlie