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Thread: Puma brake upgrades?

  1. #1
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    Puma brake upgrades?

    Hey all,
    Thinking about going to 35s and was wondering if there's any brake upgrades I can do to my 130 puma to make it pull up a bit better with the bigger boots?

    Thanks in advance
    Cammo

  2. #2
    n plus one Guest
    Maybe start with braided lines and a fluid change and go from there?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by n plus one View Post
    Maybe start with braided lines and a fluid change and go from there?
    Stainless Braided hose just gives you a firmer pedal/better feel.
    You won't pull up any better though.

  4. #4
    n plus one Guest
    At an absolute level that's true, but I find they increase initial brake performance sufficiently to effectively reduce stopping distance, which is a functional proxy for increased braking (IMO).

    Combined with new fluid it might be a good start before dropping coin on bigger calipers, etc?

  5. #5
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    Cammo,

    There is no doubt 35" tyres reduces braking quality. I have branded lines & fresh fluid and braking is still wanting. A while back I was bouncing ideas around with Gordon Shaw from Opp Lock Rockdale, as far as I know you can bolt on slotted discs on the front and you will get some improvement. The significant improvement comes with a caliper upgrade. I have not considered that upgrade so have no idea what aftermarket brands would be a bolt in upgrade. Maybe take cues from the UK tuners like Icon and Overfinch.

    MLD

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    Cammo,

    There is no doubt 35" tyres reduces braking quality. I have branded lines & fresh fluid and braking is still wanting. A while back I was bouncing ideas around with Gordon Shaw from Opp Lock Rockdale, as far as I know you can bolt on slotted discs on the front and you will get some improvement. The significant improvement comes with a caliper upgrade. I have not considered that upgrade so have no idea what aftermarket brands would be a bolt in upgrade. Maybe take cues from the UK tuners like Icon and Overfinch.

    MLD
    The slotting and drilling of rotors actually reduce the initial effectiveness of the brakes,due to the slightly reduced surface area of the braking surface.What they can do is improve braking due to heat dissipation,where the brakes may have been working hard and there is a lot of heat built up,which usually leads to brake fade.
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the replies guys. With the 35s will come lift, and hopefully more flex, so that will mean longer brake lines - and I'll definitely get braided lines then. I was leaning more to different rotors/pads/calipers. Drilled/slotted yes but maybe bigger? Looking for legal bolt on mods if such a thing exists. I'm interested in the idea of bigger calipers..

    MLD,
    Do you plan on going down the caliper upgrade path? Or try anything else? Or will it just be a case of adjusting driving style and being aware of how the truck performs under brakes now?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowRanger View Post


    The slotting and drilling of rotors actually reduce the initial effectiveness of the brakes,due to the slightly reduced surface area of the braking surface.What they can do is improve braking due to heat dissipation,where the brakes may have been working hard and there is a lot of heat built up,which usually leads to brake fade.
    Actually slotting increases initial bite, stops the pads becoming glazed, helps wipe the firebrand from the leading edge of the pad and helps outgas the pads.

    Drilling is even more effective, but leads to crack propagation.
    I hate drilled discs......

  9. #9
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    EBC pads on slotted rotors are the go,or you could go up to 6 pot calipers.Google EBC's site. Pat

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Actually slotting increases initial bite, stops the pads becoming glazed, helps wipe the firebrand from the leading edge of the pad and helps outgas the pads.

    Drilling is even more effective, but leads to crack propagation.
    I hate drilled discs......
    I didn't find any noticeable difference when going from stock to slotted and drilled front and rear (DBA)

    I did find that on a 4x4 that the drilled holes would fill with gunk, get heated and go hard. I can't imagine that helped for pad wear?

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