Fitting Steering Lock to a Perentie

[p38arover]

I helped fit a steering lock to a 110 yesterday whilst visiting KLR Automotive. This info may be of use.

The lock part no. was QRF500110. It doesn't come with the bottom clamp and that has to be purchased separately. I forgot to get the part no. for that.

The old lock doesn't have an accessories position but the new lock does. We didn't use that but there is no reason why it couldn't be utilised.

It's a simple matter to remove the old key switch. The old switch has wide spade terminals for the main battery feed and the glowplug feed but the new switch has standard width terminals. It was decided that the glowplugs were no needed so they were not connected to the new switch.

Old switch (sorry about quality of my iPhone pix):




I cut the old wide spade connector off the main battery feed and crimped on a standard width spade.

New Switch:


The switch numbers don't match so I have drawn up a wiring table to help. See the attached PDF file. The grey shaded boxes indicate which terminals are interconnected at each switch position.

If I haven't made it clear enough, let me know.

[Phil B]

Ron,

Thanks for this.
Very usefull!!

Regards,

Phil B

[UncleHo]

All my vehicles both my Series have a "Krooklock" and the Disco and RRC have a "Club" steering lock in them, then would be thieves only have to look into them to see that they are not "Easysteals"

Cheap way of protecting a Perentie and it is recognised by Insurance Coy's I have a friend with a Perentie fitted with a motion sensor alarm connected to his horns, boy does that thing make a racket

[p38arover]

This customer wanted a steering lock.

[DeeJay]

All my vehicles both my Series have a "Krooklock" and the Disco and RRC have a "Club" steering lock in them, then would be thieves only have to look into them to see that they are not "Easysteals"

Cheap way of protecting a Perentie and it is recognised by Insurance Coy's I have a friend with a Perentie fitted with a motion sensor alarm connected to his horns, boy does that thing make a racket

Weld the backing plate on to the main shaft. I was at a field day & the guy selling another type was using the krooklock to show its weakness, A thief simply hammers a screwdriver between the backing plate- that is only crimped on- and the shaft & the whole lock falls to pieces.

[DBT]

Dunno if still in production, but "Prolock" was a fully welded steering lock. Was recommended to me years ago by a locksmith acquaintance.

He used to tell me about call outs he attended to remove club locks after owners had lost their key(s).

He would offer to "pick" the lock for $50, or break it off for free (in addition to call out fee). He took much delight in demonstrating what short work a hammer and cold chisel made of the most popular brand of steering lock at the time.

Come to think of it, this was happening around the time my 50-140 was rolling off the production line.

[DBT]

Small correction to the wiring diagram above:

When OE ignition switch is in "start" position (cranking), the white lead and terminal are NOT energised. Only in Ignition / Run position are they switched on.

This caused me some issues while installing an immobiliser today. I retreated at last light and have planned a new approach to complete the install ... Tomorrow.

[p38arover]

Thanks DBT, I'll amend the drawing.

[p38arover]

DBT, I went over to KLR Auto and grabbed another switch that had been removed from a different Perentie and checked it. It had the same connection diagram that I had drawn, i.e., terminals 1 and 2 are connected in both ignition and start positions.

As a result, I have not updated the diagram.

[DBT]

No worries. Might just be mine.

Or it might be my battery is on its last legs, so it barely has enough juice to crank. It is sluggish on cold mornings.