Any electronics gurus out there?
I have a cheap Chinese GPS that I have had for a few years but until recently has worked well.
The power for it is provided by a standard 12v to 5v GPS power lead with a Mini USB 5Pin plug that plugs into a socket on the GPS main circuit board. Unfortunately the socket on the mainboard seems faulty as power from the lead is intermittent - is not the lead as I have a few and all have the same issue.
I can buy mini USB 5pin sockets no issue for a few cents each but I am not sure about soldering it to the circuit board. The four supports are fine but the 5pins are probably less than .1mm apart s very fine soldering is needed.
So if there are any electronic experts out there - can these pins be soldered at home with a fine low wattage soldering iron and magnified glasses or is it too hard. Any tricks.
I did have an earlier GPS that had the same issue at it cost me about $100 to have the socket replaced on it.
The issue comes about due to rough tracks when 4wding and the power leads shakes and vibrates stressing the socket - I did cable tie this power lead down but it was too late.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Any electronics gurus out there?
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Anything can be repaired with appropriate tools and skills. I had a radio that had a similar problem. All attempts at repair proved fruitless as the attachment of the connector to the circuit board was poorly designed. It mat be cheaper and easier to buy a new GPS. They're quite cheap now.
Its been a while since I've had to work on something that fine, but get the finest pointed tip you can get, and try not to apply too much heat or too much solder.
If the tracks haven't pulled of the board you should be ok.
You other option which I have done when connectors break is to connect the cable direct to the board, downside is that it can't be unplugged at that end, upside is that you may find an easier spot to connect to and will be less prone to vibrations.
Richard
Yes - that is the second option. I would get a Garmin if the good ones had AV in. Those that do have poor reviews and cost a motza.
Thanks - the connector is still connected top the board OK but it seems there is a dry joint inside the socket where you cannot get at it. I was thinking about bypassing the socket going direct to the board but it is all pretty small stuff as well.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Missed this one before Garry, but yes it is quite possible (I wouldn't say easy though) to do. I've a low powered iron with a 1.0mm tip that I use for fine work like that.
I used to do a lot of work like that, particularly games consoles.
Post a picture of the part, so I can see if it's a straightforward repair or not.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
That one's a doddle Garry.
Get some de-soldering braid, and gently heat those pads up, and soak the old solder up with the braid. Don't get them too hot or you'll damage the tracks.
When soldering the new one on, just a dab on flux with the end of a cocktail stick on the pad, then solder with a tiny tip.
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