This has happened to me. Once I really pushed the red lever forward (almost touching the fire wall) all was good.
Nic
Series 2A 186 Holden
Well, here's my 1st breakdown since I put her on the road. It must be 12 months as my renewal for rego just arrived.
After using low ratio 4WD putting branches on the bonfire in a boggy paddock, I dragged the red lever back & the yellow knob bobbed up but when I engaged a gear & let the clutch out, nada! I can hear gear noise from the box but no drive.
4WD lo & hi ratio work fine!
Comments?
Diagnostic procedures?
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberThis has happened to me. Once I really pushed the red lever forward (almost touching the fire wall) all was good.
Nic
Hello from Brisbane.
Sounds like a broken rear axle.
Hence in 4Wd it is driving through the front axles.
Cheers,
Definitely sounds like a half shaft. Put it in gear, let the clutch out and have someone check whether the prop shaft is turning. If so you have broken an axle (half shaft.)
The golden rule with broken axles is to make sure you replace both sides, never put a new one in with an old one as the old one won't last that long.
Regards
Glen
1962 P5 3 Ltr Coupe (Gwennie)
1963 2a gunbuggy 112-722 (Onslow) ex 6 RAR
1964 2a 88" SWB 113 251 (Daisy) ex JTC
REMLR 226
Hi geodon, two things you mentioned need clarification. If you were in low range the the red lever would need to be pushed forward, not back, to disengage. Also the yellow knob would already be up. If you were in high range then different story. As you say, the yellow knob would pop up as the red lever was pulled back. You would then have the transfer case in neutral - with no drive! That's the second point - are u in between low and high range? When low range is engaged (red stick pulled back) it also engages the front axle. No need to touch the yellow knob. If you want to engage the front axle while in high range all that is required is push the yellow knob down. (This is presuming that if you have freewheeling hubs they are locked). To test, lock your front hubs, if you have them, get in and try moving the red stick between the three positions while you got the clutch depressed. Don't touch yellow knob. You should get drive in the forward most and rearward most positions. Neural is in middle. If you have no drive in forward position then something broken in the back. Try same thing with handbrake on - gently - just feel it, don't actually try to drive..... If it wants to stall then you know all is well in the transfer. Next try hacking up each rear wheel, one at a time, and try turning it. Do this with the handbrake on. Let us know how u go. Cheers, matt
Sent from my HTC Incredible S using AULRO mobile app
Sorry Snafu! Yes yellow knob pops up when the red lever goes forward. I can't push it any further forward. Thanks to all! Dark now so I will put it up on stands tomorrow & start it up in all combos and watch what turns & what doesn't. If it is the rear half shaft I can tell right or left by rotating each back wheel. The side that doesn't turn the opposite number is the one that's stuffed. Yes?
No that's not right! Neither will turn the other because the connection is broken but the one that's intact WILL turn via the propshaft.
Old age is a bitch but it's better than the alternative
No that won't happen.
The diff will spin the one with least resistance ie the broken one. Will I hear it turning? It has transmission brake. So If I jam it on, both back wheels will still turn due to the differential effect for the intact one & the broken one will freewheel. So how do I pick it??
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						ummm... the broken one will be broken and won't turn if you turn the propshaft. If both back wheels are jacked up there is no load on either so they should both try to turn but the broken one can't.
Cheers,
TimJ.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
Thnx Tim. Of course! When the diff turns the propshaft will too so the broken one won't because there is no connection to the diff.
I was concerned that just turning the propshaft eg via the motor will just spin via the line of least resistance &, like when one wheel slips on mud, there will be only one wheel spinning in the absence of a diff lock. It's very unlikely 2 back wheels will have equal resistance to turning when jacked up.
But in the mirror image, turning the back wheels while jacked up will ALWAYS turn the propshaft unless there is a broken connection.
A bit too much red last nite?
As my youngest daughter would say" "Well derrrr, Dad!"
Last edited by geodon; 6th September 2014 at 06:58 AM. Reason: more info
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