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Thread: steering query

  1. #1
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    steering query

    hi everyone,

    i fitted the steering box the other day and spun it freely with the steering wheel fitted. I have now fitted all the connecting rods from the steering box through to the wheels and lifted the front tyres off the ground so they spin freely.

    now when i turn the steering wheel it is very heavy/hard to turn, any ideas what has gone wrong??

    i have added a pic if it helps


    cheers for all your help everyone
    Josh
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SII Josh View Post
    hi everyone,

    i fitted the steering box the other day and spun it freely with the steering wheel fitted. I have now fitted all the connecting rods from the steering box through to the wheels and lifted the front tyres off the ground so they spin freely.

    now when i turn the steering wheel it is very heavy/hard to turn, any ideas what has gone wrong??

    i have added a pic if it helps


    cheers for all your help everyone
    Josh
    hi josh if you turn steering wheel 30 mm you should move the wheel and on the ground ihave fully service steering boxs here jim
    Russell Rovers
    Series I Parts Specialists
    russellrovers AT gmail.com
    Phone 0428732001

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    With all the links connected, even with the wheels off the ground, you have (deliberate) added friction at the steering relay and each swivel, so there will be more resistance than with nothing connected, but should not be "very heavy".

    Firstly, check that nothing is fouling any of the steering gear - you haven't for example, got wiring hooked on it. Make sure that the steering relay has oil in it - if you have not overhauled or replaced it, it is possible that is necessary. Similarly, the swivels may have excessive preload (were they oiled when assembled?).

    If you can't identify the problem, disconnect a couple of the tie rod ends one at a time to ascertain just where the drag is.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    cheers for the info guys,

    No wiring has been put on the car yet so that is an easy box to tick off, checked nothing else was getting caught on from full lock to full lock. must be deeper

    will start the process of elimination tonight with a pint of guinness for crowd support.

    will update in the morning

  5. #5
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    bit of an update for you all,

    after following everyones advice, starting at the wheels i disconnected the links individually till i got no heavy drag.

    i got all the way back to the relay box (which could mean this saga isn't over yet)

    i removed the relay box and found no oil in it. i gave it a quick bath in rust buster to help remove any rust from the inside then flushed it with degreaser.

    a question i have is how much oil goes in the filler hole??

    cheers
    Josh

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SII Josh View Post
    bit of an update for you all,

    after following everyones advice, starting at the wheels i disconnected the links individually till i got no heavy drag.

    i got all the way back to the relay box (which could mean this saga isn't over yet)

    i removed the relay box and found no oil in it. i gave it a quick bath in rust buster to help remove any rust from the inside then flushed it with degreaser.

    a question i have is how much oil goes in the filler hole??

    cheers
    Josh
    Early ones have a filler hole on top and a separate air hole. Later ones, remove two of the four bolts on top - either way, add oil until it comes out the other hole. Unfortunately, if it is dry, then the bottom seal is probably leaking and will need to be replaced - and what does the shaft surface the seal bears on look like? If you are disassembling the relay to overhaul it, please read the manual instructions carefully - the spring inside is strong, and can be dangerous.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    If you are disassembling the relay to overhaul it, please read the manual instructions carefully - the spring inside is strong, and can be dangerous.

    John
    \I'll 2nd that! Really good fun getting it apart! and even more getting it back together!

  8. #8
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    We hate steering relays, they are the scum. Watch that spring Josh!

    There are several here

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
    Our FB Page..
    https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks

    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  9. #9
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    Relay rebuild covered here over a few posts Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

    Getting it apart is easy, remove both endcaps, wrap it up in old rags and drift out the shaft/split-bushes/spring assembly.



    Putting back together needs a special tool made. I've done a couple now and they get easier the more practice you have.

    You can remove the control arm then the bottom cover plate and just replace the seal (no need to take the relay apart) but this depends on the shaft condition. If it's pitted you'll have to take the relay apart & refurbish.
    I managed on my Series I to just replace the seal 1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #10
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    cheers for the link gromit, will attempt to recreate from your photos.

    if you have tool handy are you able to throw up the ID and OD of the ring piece?

    cheers
    Josh

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