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Thread: hot floor 2014 130 2.2

  1. #1
    rillas is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    hot floor 2014 130 2.2

    Has anybody noticed the floor in 130 gets that hot behind the front seats, on investigation I found it is caused by the exhaust muffler.Can I remove like I did on my d90 2004 td5 would it have any reprocussion!!

  2. #2
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    No,did mine already,buy some Dynamat also. Pat

  3. #3
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    How about under drivers legs, the heat on my calfs is slightly annoying. Seems to come from around the hand brake area?
    Mines a 2.4

  4. #4
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    Handbrake area heat

    Quote Originally Posted by tyne View Post
    How about under drivers legs, the heat on my calfs is slightly annoying. Seems to come from around the hand brake area?
    Mines a 2.4
    Tyne, my MY11 Puma also gets extremely hot around the handbrake lever area as well! My old TD5 Defender also got hot but I don't recall it getting this hot.

    I have heard but not confirmed that all the Defenders with a cat fitted will heat up in this area & that going to a de cat down pipe will help. Just what I have heard ! But this option also has its legal issues as well.

    I have even thought about trying to make a air duct system to funnel cooler air from the front Back over the transmission tunnel. It really is quite uncomfortable in serious summer heat for extended trips.

    If anyone has ideas or things they have done that worked I for one would appreciate the feedback.
    Regards Chris

  5. #5
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    A hot handbrake or heat around the handbrake is usually caused by hot air seeping in through either the grommet for the handbrake cable, or more likely gaps in the seams around the seat box. A temporary fix can be made by wrapping a T shirt around the handbrake - or as I originally did a strip of sheepskin. That made the whole thing much nicer to drive. Under warranty they sealed up my seat box, and I no longer get a hot hand brake.

    The handbrake lever itself mounts via two bolts to the seat box, the cable runs through a small grommet through the seat box, the only way it will get hot is due to air leaks.

    All Defenders post around 2003 (EU 3+) have a cat - Some UK or Euro delivered Defenders since 2012 have a DPF as well - and that's built in to where the CAT is. On the post 2007 Defender the CAT is located around where the steering shaft goes through the firewall. On the TD5 the Cat is on the passenger side. A straight through pipe might help - but it's still going to have very hot air under the vehicle, and any air leaks will be damned hot. My 2013 PUMa is no longer hot after they fixed the air leaks, and it used to burn my leg.

    One day I'm going to source some black sheep skin and make a tunnel cover with a handbrake boot.. I hate how the handbrake digs into my leg, but that sheepskin pad I made before was awesome.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rillas View Post
    Has anybody noticed the floor in 130 gets that hot behind the front seats, on investigation I found it is caused by the exhaust muffler.Can I remove like I did on my d90 2004 td5 would it have any reprocussion!!
    Are you also getting a slight clunk clunk clunk from the drivetrain as you coast to a stop at a set of traffic lights. The reason I ask is that with New Defenders the handbrake is sometimes adjusted too tight, and drags. The results is the handbrake drum get very very hot and radiates heat to the rear of the seat box. My Puma was adjusted by the dealer to cure the clunk clunk with the result I only get a slight handbrake with the remaining last click... It needs to go back again. But the floor stays cold even after a long trip.

    For some reason Land Rover can no longer make a round handbrake drum, eventually they do wear round.....

  7. #7
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    I found that some Dynamat a decat with centre pipe removal will cut down 90% of the heat. Along with noise reduction and more effective aircon you will get slightly better fuel economy.

  8. #8
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    You could just fit the Exmoor Trim matting system...

    Matting : PUMA Moulded Matting System 2007 onwards BLACK £330.00+vat

    Mine's been in for a few years now and it has spectacular acoustic and thermal insulation properties. I've been used to the half roasted left calf from many years of Defender driving and the mat has completely eliminated it. Fixes the brittle, nasty matting that Ford's left as legacy for the Puma and looks very nice as well. A link to my install thread:

    Puma Rubber Matting System

    A bit expensive, but when you start adding up exhaust modifications Dynamat etc etc it very quickly becomes worth it.

    Cheers,

    Lou

  9. #9
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    Too right about Fords matting, mines dropping to bits. Looks like I will making an Exmoor Trim order before too long.

  10. #10
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    Well, well well I'm not the only one whinging about the heat. I've got a 2.4 & s h i t was it getting hot! The first thing I fixed were the h/brake grommets & plastic buttons that weren't in the holes .... small improvement. Then I noticed how much heat was around the g/lever so lifted out the licorice they call a floor mat & voila the big rubber grommet sealing the g/box tower wasn't in place, refitted & sealed it in place, another improvement. I then noticed that the "fresh" air coming in was hot & found that the the duct from the guard vent at the fan motor wasn't sealing, in fact the seal was not even properly in place! Refitted the seal, still not sealing so made & added another seal then did a smoke test, fkn beauty fixed that & what a diff. I looked at another brand new 2.2 & it wasn't sealing either to the point that I could put my fingers in the gap. I then made a scoop & fitted it to the air intake grill & hell it blows enough air in that I can feel it on my feet w/out the fan going. I'm currently making a fresh air duct for the r/h guard to go into the brake pedal box which will blow air directly down the b/pedal onto my feet. Stay tuned. Ian

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