Experience in running and maintenance cost of D4

[thseah]

Hi, Am a newbie to LR

Switching from my trusted Subaru Outback to a 2014 LR 4 TDV6. Am slightly wary of maintenance cost and running cost as my subaru is fairly low maintenance. I've heard that the brake pad needs to be changed every year or every 2 years esp. if mainly doing city driving. Probably getting the car this weekend, just want to know what I'm getting into and if I can afford the ongoing costs. Also, any major service cost that I should look out for other than the brake pads?

Also, I've read that most ppl get their windows tinted outside of dealership. I gather it is not worthwhile getting the cancer council tint that the dealer recommend?

Thanks folks!!

[winaje]

Hi, Am a newbie to LR

Switching from my trusted Subaru Outback to a 2014 LR 4 TDV6. Am slightly wary of maintenance cost and running cost as my subaru is fairly low maintenance. I've heard that the brake pad needs to be changed every year or every 2 years esp. if mainly doing city driving. Probably getting the car this weekend, just want to know what I'm getting into and if I can afford the ongoing costs. Also, any major service cost that I should look out for other than the brake pads?

Also, I've read that most ppl get their windows tinted outside of dealership. I gather it is not worthwhile getting the cancer council tint that the dealer recommend?

Thanks folks!!

Firstly welcome to the family!

Second, the D4 is a very different beast to the Outback, at probably close to double the weight as well as the usefulness lol. Change the brake pads when the warning pops up on the instrument screen. Do more regular oil and filter changes if you city drive. Change the trans fluid every 50k if you do a lot of city driving and towing. Other than that there's not a lot that needs to be done apart from book servicing.

If you are handy with spanners and are confident, learn to do stuff yourself so that you can reduce the servicing costs after your warranty expires.

More than anything, get out and enjoy what is an amazingly capable, versatile and comfortable vehicle.

[lpj]

Hi, Am a newbie to LR

Switching from my trusted Subaru Outback to a 2014 LR 4 TDV6. Am slightly wary of maintenance cost and running cost as my subaru is fairly low maintenance. I've heard that the brake pad needs to be changed every year or every 2 years esp. if mainly doing city driving. Probably getting the car this weekend, just want to know what I'm getting into and if I can afford the ongoing costs. Also, any major service cost that I should look out for other than the brake pads?

Also, I've read that most ppl get their windows tinted outside of dealership. I gather it is not worthwhile getting the cancer council tint that the dealer recommend?

Thanks folks!!

The first service is not due until 25k but many opt for an interim at 14K for an oil change.

I have just changed my pad and rotors after 2 years of mostly city driving but opted to use non genuine as the genuine stuff is very expensive (as is the case with any genuine brake bits).

I also came from a Subaru/s. Just like the boxer engine, the D4 is sensitive to missed services and oil changes, so stay on top of that.

Other than that, its going to cost more than a small car to maintain, as does any large 4x4.

Best advice is to look through the FAQ's on this site and keep up to date. I think this is a car that requires a little more "enthusiasm" than other makes which suits me because i love it. For those that just want "a to b" transport and cant be bothered to learn about the car, well sometimes they can run into "issues" that are actually very easy to fix/avoid if you know how.

Aulro is your friend and is daily reading for me!

[letherm]

Also, I've read that most ppl get their windows tinted outside of dealership. I gather it is not worthwhile getting the cancer council tint that the dealer recommend?

Hi and welcome.

Mine is just over a year old and I chose to have a service at 6 months (basically just an oil and filter change together with a general "health" check to see all was ok) as I do a lot of short runs of about only 5 kms. I've only done just over 8,000 km. Just had the 12 month service. Cost of 6 and 12 month service at the dealer I bought the car from were $564 and $820 respectively. According to the dealer my brakes are hardly worn after 8,000 kms

I got window tinting done privately and from memory it was 3M. You can almost guarantee that a dealer charge will be over the top and you can save a lot by getting it done elsewhere. Dealer extras cost a lot more and you're just paying for the convenience of them doing it for you rather than getting it done yourself. My advice is to research what you're interested in and get the best deal you can while checking that they have a good reputation.

Martin

[nat_89]

Welcome to the forum and I guarantee the switch from a subaru outback to a d4 will be the best move you ever make they are an awesome car. Also check out who you work for as you may be entitled to the corporate program which can save you the servicing costs for 3 years or 100000kms plus free floor mats. I would get the 3m crystalline tint which is about the best you can buy just blows me out how much heat it blocks out really good tint we love it.

[BobD]

Hi and welcome.


I don't think the brakes wear quickly. In fact mine are longer wearing than any other car I have ever had. My 2010 D4 has just clocked 170,000km and I did my second front pad change and first front rotor change this year. The rears are worse and I have basically changed the rear pads and rotors twice as often as the front.


The major expense items as the cars age are the compressor, suspension struts, EPB, front lower control arms and tyres. Brakes are the least of our worries I reckon. The big ticket item that I have had recently is the timing belt replacement and we did the water pump while it was easily accessible with the front of the engine exposed. Also, if you want to keep the transmission healthy, you need to convert to the steel pan and service it every 60,000km or so.

[thseah]

Thanks all. Great resources here!

Good to know abt the approx 6 and 12 months service cost.

"I have just changed my pad and rotors after 2 years of mostly city driving but opted to use non genuine as the genuine stuff is very expensive (as is the case with any genuine brake bits)."

I've heard a couple of ppl that have done the same. Does this void the warranty?

Am looking forward in getting my LR!!!

[jon3950]

Does this void the warranty?

No.

Of course Land Rover won't warrant the non-genuine items - and nor should they.

Personally, I don't think genuine pads and rotors are all that expensive and they work well. Its the dealer labour rates that makes the job expensive.

I've just done rear pads at 50k, rotors were just skimmed. Life obviously varies with use - mine have had a reasonably hard life. Fronts still going strong, expect to get about 70k but will probably do them at the next service anyway.

Cheers,
Jon

[scarry]

Brake life is relative to driving style,also relatively powerful,heavy vehicles,such as the D4 can go through them quickly with a lot of around town k's.

A lot of dirt road and sand work can also chop them out quickly as well,particularly the rears.

Bendix actually have a new range of Euro pads,but last time i looked,i couldn't see any for the D4 range.

As Jon3950 said i would stick with genuine.

[lpj]

Personally, I don't think genuine pads and rotors are all that expensive and they work well. Its the dealer labour rates that makes the job expensive.

On the genuine versus non genuine, I will say that the non genuine I went for aren't finished as well and the centre part of the rotors rust- which really annoys me. I got my Indy mechanic to paint them which does help. Next time, If the cost difference is not too bad, I would go genuine.

Luke