Failed Puma Transfer Case

[Keath]

Alright,

My 08' Puma 110's transfer case decided to **** itself a couple of weeks ago, with about 115,000km's on the clock, despite receiving fresh oil less than 6 months ago - NOT HAPPY. The specialist who removed it has deemed it to un-repairable so I have sourced a Land Rover refurbished replacement.

I don't really know how well it was maintained before I purchased the car a couple of years ago, but surely this a still quite a premature failure.

My question is, what can I do from the get go to extend the life of the new case? I have read that a change of oil is advised every 20,000k's or so, as opposed to LR's recommendation. And what oil can you recommend, keeping in mind I live in southern Victoria.

Thank you in advance.

Lachlan.

[DazzaTD5]

I recommend changing fluids on the transfer cases every 50,000kms (in fact my warranty requires this), Ive always used full synthetic 75W90, while this may seem a bit over the top, ive not had a warranty claim on a rebuilt transfer case in over 20 years.

Normally a LT230 transfer case is not rebuildable when its either had a bearing failure and one of the gear sets has been driven into the back of the case, thus destroying it or its completely worn out beyond belief.

I guess by your post you have already sourced a transfer case, did you not try Ashcroft Transmissions in the U.K ?

Regards
Daz

[PAT303]

Dazza,what oil do you use?,mines about due for a change,I like Penrite. Pat

[goingbush]

IMO The LT230 transfer case in a Puma is canted over at an angle compared to earlier Defenders so has less oil capacity, it runs hotter and blows up earlier. I'd go with 20k changes and use Castrol Syntrax . that is if you want to get a reasonable life out of it. (or get one of those rover canada extended sumps for it)

Suggest you put a TM4 or similar temp sensor on it and watch the temperature go off the scale. hot oil burns and burned oil dosent lubricate as well so you need to change oil often. If you drain it and its dark brown its overheated & not doing its job.

[DazzaTD5]

I've always used Castrol products for all the drivelines of Land Rover (never been a great fan of their engine oils, still arent but does get used on still under warranty vehicles as its the spec).

For awhile now I have been using (after a lot of way over the top testing and playing around) Syntech FS range of fluids (by PowerUP) with really good results. They have become the products I use except where Castrol engine oil is spec'd (new vehicles) and ZF Lifeguard 6 (disco 3 etc on). But as I dont think they do retail any known brand (Castrol, Nulon) is great.

The LT230 transfer case in a Defender puma, from a left to right perspective it actually sits at a more vertical angle and would hold more oil (as the case is the same as the last TD5s) although it wont be much more. I dont see too many LT230 transfer cases that have suffered galling (which put in very simple basic terms) is the exchange of metal from one gear (or surface) to another (looks like weld splatter on one and rough holes on the other) caused by the break down of the lubricant (as in its not lubricating). What you generally find is worn bearings, worn gears and pitting (pitting being the ingress of dirt into the bearing surface).

So change fluid often and use an over the top synthetic oil.

Regards
Daz

[Keath]

Thank you for all the reply's

For now I will change the oil every 20,000k's, and if the oil is looking a bit worse for wear, i will change it again in 10,000k's and see if it makes a difference.

FYI - i sourced a Land Rover Factory Refurbished unit as a replacement, as a brand new unit was going to cost much more than I could afford, mind you, it was still $2,600 + fitting.