DC-DC charger- which one?

[mijango]

Hi, I have decided to bite the bullet and move to a DC-DC charger for my 2010 D4 TDV6. I currently am running a Traxide dual battery system, though with regular charging trhough my ctek mx5.0 I'm still suffering problems with keeping the voltage up (some of you may remember my earlier posts)

I know there is some great feedback on the Traxide system, though I've heard several views that the Battery Mgt System in the D4's responds far better to the draw of current from a DC-DC setup as opposed to an isolator. Just one school of thought I know, but at least the DC-DC charger can still use the existing wiring.

So, my question is which DBS to go with? I am really tossing up between the Redarc BCDC1225
25A In-Vehicle Battery Charger/MPPT Regulator (BCDC1225) - REDARC
and the Low Voltage version of the same model (BCDC1225-LV). Is the lower voltage (which I think is more a variable voltage) more suitable to the Battery Mgt system in the earlier D4's?

In terms of use, I will be using it to run a fridge while camping, plus an inverter for charging low power items such as phone chargers. I also tow a camper trailer with an in-house battery and occassionally charge it through the anderson at the back of the Disco (although do have solar panels which I usually use). I'd also like to have the option to charge the car dual batteries via solar by plugging into the anderson plug at the back of the car.

Any thoughts or advice much appreciated..

[Mick_Marsh]

Oooohhhh!.
I suspect this may be an active, heated thread.

There has been lots of people posting on DC/DC chargers. Do a search.

My advice would be to get the most expensive one. The reason being, indications are they are bought by people who want to waste their money.

[Homestar]

Hang on, let me get comfortable....



Ok, I'm ready.

[RobA]

OK I'' have a crack at this

In the first instance you have raised several questions and issues which need additional information before anyone can actually reply in detail.

I have no idea of the duty cycle of the car so it would be useful to know if you run a deficit cycle. Which is lots of short trips that do not allow the system to fully top-up the starting battery. if that is the case then with your Traxide system all you really need is a decent battery charger and whilst there are plenty around we use the RedArc Smart Charger and have for the last 12 years or so given we helped design the thing.

I need an idea of the second/third battery you are using to understand if they are properly scaled for the work and demand you have as another piece of start point information. We are using the standard Traxide with a yellow top and our car sits in the garage a lot until taken out to play so I simply put the smart charger on the yellow top which also charges the starting battery concurrently. So far no issues at all.

You mention an inverter but no comment on output and duration of use so also very difficult to provide a professional view on that one I am afraid. We have a 400w one in the camper trailer and that with two AGM 150AH batteries keeps all things going overnight and the solar panels top the batteries up during most days.

We tow an Ultimate and given all modern vehicles have a lazy alternator, hence the invention of DC chargers to compensate for that little design fault, and to overcome that we simply but a RedArc BMS in the Ulti and that resolves the lack of volts coming back from the car via the Anderson plug. If you rely just on volts via Anderson plug camper batteries will not be charged

Our Traxide and RedArc setups both allow us to charge car and camper using our solar panels. Any decent auto electrician can do that as part of a fitout.

Overall 12 volt systems are one of the most talked about and vexed discussion items anywhere in my experience. The complexity of modern vehicle electronics is a very long way from vehicles made a decade ago but sadly many opinions have not kept pace with the issues so the risk of leading someone astray is relatively simple

So an interesting question which I hope will result in lots of constructive feedback for which this site is renown. As I am one of the beneficiaries of that advice and have put it to great use so far I am always happy to offer at least our experiences as a contribution to the informed debate

Regards

Rob

[clubagreenie]

Speak to Tim at traxide first, get his advice on his product and what it may be doing wrong. Then take his recommendation. If it's necessary he'll recommend a DC/DC, but I'll put my house and yacht on him not.

[Wheelan]

Ill chime in, Ctek 250s. Had them in 2 cars, no brainer, my batts have never been better. Just dont over tighten the screws, you have been warned. oh yeah, cheap too on ebay.

[Vern]

I have a friend who has the problem with his gu patrol, it runs a redarc duel battery system and charges a second battery, it also charges two batteries in the camper. It doesn't work very well.
His brother has the identical set up, but in a 100 series, his works perfectly.
From what I read, and don't really understand that well, the patrol alt works via the ecu?
Has been told to install a BC DC charger.

[drivesafe]

Hi mijango, before you go wasting money on a DC/DC device, get your D4 software updated.

There has been a lot of problems with D4s not charging their own cranking battery, let alone not being able to charge auxiliary/house batteries.

I have had a number of customers, who, after being told by the dealer's service staff, my system was causing the low charging voltage in their D4, they disconnect my system for a month or so only to still have the same problems.

In one case the customer had the hidden screen up when ever he was driving and he told me that not once in the month after disconnecting my system when the dealer accused my system as being the cause of his low voltage, did his operating voltage ( with the motor running ) ever get above 12.2v.

After a month of continual flat cranking batteries, he went back to the dealer, and told them his DBS had been disconnected for a month but he still had the same problem.

They check and found there was a software update.

It is for something called the GATEWAY MODULE in newer D4s and there will be other updates as well for earlier D4s.

The dealership carried out the update and the customer rang me as he was travelling back home from the dealers to tell me his alternator voltage was now 14.7v.

This problem started in the UK early last year and is happening here now.

So again, before you waste a bucket load of money on something you should not need, get the update done.

Here is the specific Land Rover info for the GATEWAY update. This will fix any "LOW BATTERY START MOTOR" messages and should fix any low voltage problems, but double check with your dealer to see if there an other updates.

TSB Number: LTB-00667-NAS-1
NHTSA Number: 10056435
TSB Date: August 1, 2014
Date Added to File: December 2, 2014
Failing Component: Electrical System: Software
Summary:
Land rover: due to gateway module (gwm) software issue, the instrument cluster and/or eco stop/start, fails to function and displays, intermittently, Battery warning message and warning lamp. Model 2014 lr4 (la).


With more than 4,000 D3s and D4s with my kits fitted, and other than the software update being needed, no one has ever needed a DC/DC device.

Furthermore, with out the update, if you fit a DC/DC device, you are more than likely to have a lot of flat cranking battery situations, if the up date is needed.

[Vern]

Tim, not to take over the original poster thread, but what do you think would be the cause of my mates gu patrol?

[Tombie]

RobA has asked the best compilation of questions pertinent to your use/needs..

Once you provide some feedback more assistance should easily flow your way.

Keep in mind DC-DC chargers are current limiting - in this case 25amp... And will actually increase charge time...

But enough of that; provide as much feedback as you can and we can move forward from there..