Bits #1

[Rick Fischer]

Hi guys

My 80" has a dead diff,, one of the bearing collapsed and dropped all of it's rollers and the CW had a chew at the body.

I have been told that a Series II diff is the same. Is this Correct? If so how far up "Series" does it go?

Second one, the bush holder in the second leaf of one of my front springs has fractured. Are the springs, or the leaf/s interchangeable with other Series?

Had my axles with bearings separated, returned today. No one appeared to mention that the rear axle inner retaining collar had to be releaved/cut off. Will need to source a pair of those too I guess

Having asked all of that, do we have an "interchangeable/Useable on" parts list somewhere in here?

Cheers

Rick F

[crackers]

Blimey Rick, didn't run over someone's black cat did you?

I can't answer your questions but your suggestion of a sticky with interchangeable parts sounds like a useful tool ... even if I'm not sure how it'd work.

[Lost Landy]

You can use a series 2 SWB rear complete diff and housing thou it will be about 1 inch wider over all and you will gain fully floating axles and easier to source parts. As for the springs what model 80"? is it the front or rear road springs that have the cracked bush eye?

[wrinklearthur]

You can use a series 2 SWB rear complete diff and housing thou it will be about 1 inch wider over all and you will gain fully floating axles and easier to source parts. As for the springs what model 80"? is it the front or rear road springs that have the cracked bush eye?

The rear springs are narrower on a 80" than the next model 86" and the centre bolt to the other side centre bolt is nearly about a 1" narrower than the same on the 86".
I know this as I brought at the time, the only rear diff housing that was available in Cook Town in 1973 which was a 80" one to fit into my 86", this was to replace the very bent one ( don't ask how that happened ), it got me out of trouble until I returned to Townsville to replace both front and back diff housings .

About 1951 there was change to the wider springs on the front only, the same as the 86" but the springing rate was lighter on the 80".

Piece of cake to fit series 2A axle assembly's into the 86" series 1 however, as the centre bolt spacing's are the same for both models and the spring rates are very similar for the series 1 86" / 88" compared with the series 2A and series 3 88"
If you are hanging a bull bar and winch on the front of a series one, then the slightly stronger rated springs for the later 88" models would be an advantage.

When obtaining the wider front axle assembly don't forget to include the longer link rod in your parts grab and watch out for the differences in the steering knuckles.

[JDNSW]

As indicated the actual axle housing is not interchangeable without modification, but the bit with the works that bolts into the axle housing is interchangeable on all Series Landrovers except for Stage 1 and Salisbury rear axles fitted from late Series 2a 109 on. Note that some diffs intended to front axles do not have the filler plug, so avoid these.

However, very early 80" have a different diff ratio - count teeth and see what you have - if you have 4.7:1, you are in business. (and it may have had a different ratio fitted at some time)

If the damage is to the housing, it would probably be best to repair it, but if to the bolt in bit, replace the whole lot - there are plenty about.

John

[wrinklearthur]

John has added something else to watch out for and I can expand a little more on that as well.

The earliest 80" had a 4.88 ratio diff centre and it also had a longer pinion.
I am of the opinion that the longer pinion was also found on the first of the 4.7 ratio diff, maybe the long pinion was finished with about the time the front of the 80" went to the wider width spring leaves.

Like all things Land Rover about that era, there was at times a bit of mixup of parts in the build and it was not unusual to find in a later built Land Rover it was fitted with a older part or parts.
.

[Rick Fischer]

Thanks guys. Will need to read that all again

Rear axle/diff carrier all good. Just need crownwheel, pinion and differential assembly, normally known as "the diff."

Did discover that I needed to find out what the actual ratio is and the length of the pinion to fit my drive shafts.

Anyway, if I'm lucky I'll be able to use Series II diff.

What about 2" wide leaf with eye for bush???

Pity no Interchange list Sure the knowledge is out there, just needs to be captured in a consolidated form and published at the top of all the Series pages

Cheers

RF

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Rick

The 4.7:1 ratio diff with ten splines in the side gears were common to all Series Land Rovers from mid 1950 through to 1980.

As John mentioned the Stage 1 (SIII V8 and Isuzu 3.9) have the same ten splines but a different ratio 3.54:1 the same as early Range Rover and Discos, but the axle housing needs to be modified to insert the diff assembly.

Given that the pinion is shimmed to give the correct end float on the crownwheel, most people swap over the crownwheel on the carrier still inserted into the cast iron diff housing (some people call it the diff head).

The very early 1948 model 80" (up to/including 861319) had 4.88:1 ratio but had a longer nose on the diff housing and pinion (these diffs used ball roller bearings and thrust washers). This was changed at 861320 to 4.7:1 (about December 1948) still with the long nose but tapered roller bearings without the thrust washers. The diff with the short pinion we know started at 06106001 this is the one that continued basically unchanged till 1980 (and later in the 88's and 2.3 litre SIII 109).

Diana

[Rick Fischer]

Hello all

Confirmed 4.7:1 diffs. Will now go and try to source a 'S' one locally

Moving right along. Bearings and Gitts Seals; fescolized balls, and rear axle bearing retainers

1. Bearings and Seals - way back when my Rangy could be serviced with Standard commercial bearings and Gitts seals (even replaced the Rangy's fescolized balls seals straight from bearing shop) Before I make an ass of U and me, for a $1 this should be the (post WWII case), take the numbers off the bearings and seals and waltz down to my local specialist bearing place to order???????

2. Fescolized Balls, mine are pretty knackered, from a aircraft maintenance engineer's point of view, scratched and pitted. So:

a. do recall seeing something in here about getting them hard chromed again and ground, and/or new manufacture, please advise, alternatively;
b. old remedy - clean, abrasive blast, phosphoric acid corrosion and etch, and once upon a time fill with metal set or equivalent (dunk in two pack Araldite) and then polish smooth again with wet and dry, used to hold up pretty well.

3. Can I pick up appropriate interference fit rear axle bearing retainers in Oz or do I need to order from UK (obviously, mine were cut to relieve for pressing)

Got my blasting cabinet up and running

Please advise.

Cheers

Rick F

[russellrovers]

Hello all

Confirmed 4.7:1 diffs. Will now go and try to source a 'S' one locally

Moving right along. Bearings and Gitts Seals; fescolized balls, and rear axle bearing retainers

1. Bearings and Seals - way back when my Rangy could be serviced with Standard commercial bearings and Gitts seals (even replaced the Rangy's fescolized balls seals straight from bearing shop) Before I make an ass of U and me, for a $1 this should be the (post WWII case), take the numbers off the bearings and seals and waltz down to my local specialist bearing place to order???????

2. Fescolized Balls, mine are pretty knackered, from a aircraft maintenance engineer's point of view, scratched and pitted. So:

a. do recall seeing something in here about getting them hard chromed again and ground, and/or new manufacture, please advise, alternatively;
b. old remedy - clean, abrasive blast, phosphoric acid corrosion and etch, and once upon a time fill with metal set or equivalent (dunk in two pack Araldite) and then polish smooth again with wet and dry, used to hold up pretty well.

3. Can I pick up appropriate interference fit rear axle bearing retainers in Oz or do I need to order from UK (obviously, mine were cut to relieve for pressing)

Got my blasting cabinet up and running

Please advise.

Cheers

Rick F

hi have every thing you need jim