What To Look For When Getting A First Landy

[SCseries 2a]

I am new to the forum and I was wondering what would be the best traits when looking for a first Landy. I was looking at a series 2a with unoriginal wheels and tires and a ridiculous roo bar but it did have an original 4cyl engine. The landy is an 88", it was on for $600, Do you think it is worth getting?

For more info here is the link:

1969 Land Rover (4X4) | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Maroochydore Area - Palmwoods | 1081031114

Thanks a lot and hope to hear from you.

SunshineCoastseries2a

[SCseries 2a]

I am new to the forum and I was wondering what would be the best traits when looking for a first Landy. I was looking at a series 2a with unoriginal wheels and tires and a ridiculous roo bar but it did have an original 4cyl engine. The landy is an 88", it was on for $600, Do you think it is worth getting?

For more info here is the link:

1969 Land Rover (4X4) | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Maroochydore Area - Palmwoods | 1081031114

Thanks a lot and hope to hear from you.

SunshineCoastseries2a

[crackers]

I've recently bought my first Land - Wombat, you'll find her in the Series 1 forum.

I was lucky in that I was put onto Wombat by an experienced Landy nut, but I did glean some useful things from him.

Climb in underneath and check out the chassis. That's essentially the only steel stuff on the vehicle and consequently is the bit that rusts. Check by tapping with something solid (like the handle of a screw driver) for rot. It can be fixed if needed but like everything, if it doesn't have to be... Similarly, the firewall is steel and while surface rust can be expected, you don't want rot (ie, ruddy great holes).
The body work is aluminium and so doesn't rust, but badly bent and torn can be hard to fix - aluminium doesn't panel beat as easily as steel. On the other hand, these beasts are only bolted together and you'll hear the term 'bloody great mechano set' used a fair bit, so pulling it apart and replacing panels is relatively simple (provided you can find the panels but they are around).
The motors and running gear are simple and all the parts are readily available so you can rebuild them.

Anything can be rebuilt or replaced but the more you have to rebuild and replace, the more it'll cost you. Soooooo, the more sound your base vehicle, the easier and less costly it'll be. It also depends on what gives you satisfaction and why you're going down this route. For example, I'm a puller aparterer and fixerer and not overly concerned about retaining every original part and achieving utter originality though I will attempt to get her as original as practical. Some people go for history. Some want to recreate a part of their youth they loved or missed - identify your driving forces and satisfy them.

And that's where I'm bailing out because I don't have to knowledge to go into more detail. One thing that influenced me in buying Wombat was that the initial price wasn't all that high, you aren't going to get burned too badly with anything under a grand.

[crackers]

1969 Land Rover (4X4) | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Maroochydore Area - Palmwoods | 1081031114

Well, she looks complete so that's a plus. She looks assembled so that makes it easier to work out where things were come putting it back together time (photo EVERYTHING). Stick the starter handle in and see if she still turns over.

The rear roof looks as though it's rusting. They aren't supposed to because the factory provided an aluminium unit. HOWEVER, there's been some talk on here recently about a Queensland company that made steel roofs. If it's one of them, I understand they are rather rare. Have a look around on here for the discussion. You might be looking at something special.

[Slunnie]

First thing I look for is rust in the firewall and chassis. Any rust in those areas is deal breaker for me. I think if you can tick this off, then its not a waste of time.

Then I look for paint condition (remember they are old though!) to see how much work it needs.

Dents in major body parts (ie, body parts that dont easily unbolt like rear tubs). Personally, I like to unbolt crappy parts and replace them rather than "restore" them.

The rest is straight forward from there although some aspects can take time.

By the way, decent shortys are getting hard to find now and sometimes they go for a lot of money. That said, I just saw an awesome shorty in Sydney go on ebay for $950.

Personally, my favourite is also the late Series IIa - lots of parts and they have a metal dash. Tray utes are a really easy resto option.

[SCseries 2a]

Just thinking do you think that the wheels are stock or aftermarket. If they are do you think it would be a good idea keeping them?

[jamesnedtaylor]

Just thinking do you think that the wheels are stock or aftermarket. If they are do you think it would be a good idea keeping them?

gday mate were abouts on the sunny coast are you

James

[Slunnie]

Just thinking do you think that the wheels are stock or aftermarket. If they are do you think it would be a good idea keeping them?

They are Discovery/Defender wheels. You can run tubeless tyres on them where the original rims need tubes. It's purelyersonal preference depending on what you want to do with the vehicle.

[Dinty]

And the steel turret (roof) is a 'Hedges' locally made in Qld, cheers Dennis

[JayBee75]

Hi,

having gone through this process myself and now underway with my resto, I would say don't rush into buying any Landy. Getting the right car up front will save you time and money in the long run.
It's easy to get caught up in the emotion and desire of wanting one, but potentially spending more up front again on the right car will benefit you greatly.

There are plenty for sale at the moment, the one you show looks like a good project however alot of the more experienced guys will be able to tell you the ins and outs based on what they see in the photos better than I.

From what me as a novice can see. The roof is not original, make sure its not steel as well. Carby does not look original. You need to make sure that the rust is not really bad, 'in the usual places" can indicate alot of replacement to take place, firewall, footwells and chassis.

Price seems fair but all come down to how much rust is in her. i'll let the others chime in.

Good luck.