D3, D4, or RRS?
We have an irregular problem where the front drivers door doesn't unlock, and we have to jump in the passenger side, and can't even un-latch from inside, although sometimes the internal unlock works.
After a while it sorts itself out. Any thoughts? could be a dodgy central locking connection in the door?
D3, D4, or RRS?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Our Freelander 2 drivers door lock stopped working and required a new solenoid. It was 6 years old at the time and was about $300 from memory but don't quote me. Turns out this was the only non-routine service item we ever had to do.
D4 also had an issue intermittently where the drivers door wouldn't unlock after turning the engine off, so we needed to press the unlock button to be able to get out. That was also a solenoid and done under warranty a few months ago and no issue since.
Thanks for the replies. It is a d3. Will look into the solenoids
Happened to me recently:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...unlocking.html
Then just stopped doing it and has been good ever since.....
My D4 sometimes doesn't unlock the drivers door on the 1st press of the remote.
Always seems to open on the second.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
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