Possibly a silly question.. complete axle substitution

[Mercguy]

Here's one for the not-so-faint-hearted.

complete axle assembly swaps for a 91 RRC.

Salisbury from a Defender?
(front and rear)
or rear only and something else up front?

Or something else entirely? Mog? GU Poo Troll? although I'd like to avoid a 'mod' and prefer a straight swap.

Obviously I have a reason for asking, but it's not so straightforward thinking.

According to load indexes, a Defender can take a larger axle load, as the salisbury allows, as opposed to the standard banjo axle.

I'm thinking that finding a front salisbury would be like pulling teeth, so I guess it's off the wish list and my real-world swap will be a D1 or somesuch (24 spline) to replace the 10 spline front that I currently have (one day)

But it had me thinking.... how much difficulty is in a sals swap? straightforward or is there cut and shut involved?

I'm getting to the stage where I want to do either a rebuild of a spare pair of axles, or purchase something rebuilt and bolt it in.

Just throwing it out there for some feedback.

[slug_burner]

Salisbury is a strong axle assembly but many have to give them a trim to stop the plough action as they hang down a little lower. I think the swap has been done before and it is not terribly difficult. Have seen drum rear ends used and changed to discs in the process.

You should be able to get a strong diff, axles and CVs inside the existing housing. Front Salisbury is not common, I think perhaps a 101 or other UK Military vehicle.

You would be looking at something totally different with Mog axles, no problems with dragging the diff but a little more work and engineering.

[p38arover]

P38A front and rear? All rears are 4-pin but only late P38A (Thor with 4-wheel traction control) had a 4-pin front.

[Barefoot Dave]

Drop the body on a Perentie chassis and find a Surveillance front end.
Sals rear, 4 pin front diff (braced inside and out), county CVs and a 4bd1. What's not to like?

[Slunnie]

Despite the 4x planetary gears in the P38 diff, they don't really have a reputation for being stronger. I think stronger is a rover diff with some type of 4x planetary hemisphere as the CW flexes less.

That said, the P38 diffs wont fit into a Discovery housing.

That said, if you are going to that amount of effort, the Toyota 8: hypoid conversion has been done a bit and the parts required can be purchased. (HD CV's, axles to suit, flanges, tailshaft/yolk etc.

Either way, it'll be a bit of fun building it. I've done LC60 axles into a series and sometime will change the front diff to have a Nissan Patrol centre in the LC60 housing for the high pinion. Great stuff.

[p38arover]

That said, the P38 diffs wont fit into a Discovery housing.

I was thinking full axle swaps, not just the diffs.

[Slunnie]

I was thinking full axle swaps, not just the diffs.

Do they all have the diffs on the wrong side or just some of them?

[p38arover]

All on the wrong side. I wonder if they could be flipped (with appropriate moving of bracketry). Gearing is the same as D1, RRC, D2, Defender.

What diffs does the D2 use? Maybe a complete axle swap there. Are their axles stronger than D1?

[BadCo.]

In for a penny, in for a pound.

http://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assembl...rtal-axle.html

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Mercguy]

That is a lot more options than I was aware of.

The idea of the sals was purely from a load capacity perspective. I am led to believe that it is directly related to the 'stronger' housing.

The theory is that I will rebuild 2 full axle assemblies, and do a swap-out.

If I rebuild mine, I'll lose use of the vehicle for a good amount of time - probably more than I would like, but not necessarily a bad thing. Given the cost of housings though, not much more in the way of $ involved.

If I do this, then 24 spline units will be obtained. It would be better if I could find a maxidrive equipped set of housings, but not holding my breath.

Of course the dram conversion would be mog portals but engineering those in qld would be just ugh... so a straight swap is preferred.


in the near future, an LRA body lift is going in, to accommodate the 235/85R16 KM2's on 8" wide ET-11 alloys I bought a couple of months ago.

I would consider dropping the ratio on the differentials, if a set came up with 4.11's or something similar, and I'd run 33's instead on the next set of tyres - but for now the standard ratio will be fine with the KM2's. A diff ratio change I see as a quite permanent thing, so it will be important to ensure that 33's will be useful.

right now however, Just focusing on the accumulation of the necessary items.

If you guys think I'm nuts for contemplating this let me know. always good to know what others have done.