Battery system double take..

[DJL9999]

Guys I was thinking I had quite a good new re-design for my dual battery system and camp trailer...

Until I went to cut the cables to length I decided to go through it again and am now doubting myself either that or measuring twice cutting once...

My setup:

LR3 2007

Crank - MF 88 CCA 740 RC 160
Aux - optima CA 770, CCA 620 RC 100
Connected with piranaha 150S micro (I want to change later on this year to a traxide)

Running off main battery - all standard things plus pioneer DVD and two after market 10" lcd screens (I didn't want to have the kids use whilst car is sitting there and are "trained" that we don't use unless under way. The beer and food is way more important...

Running of AUX - currently fridge ARB 47, phone chargers, some Merrits & UHF

All happy ATM but want to hook up rear Anderson for new camp trailer, ruining led lights for awning and also as a solar charge point also potentially leaving connected when I plug the camp trailer on 240v charge.. So I guess the kids could use the system while at a powered site.

Also Adding the following electrical items..

- Inverter 1200w Max (running PS3 while under way) may add a PS3 this year as second unit as I have built provision.
- HDMI matrix switcher 12v 1A
- side and rear work lights (off Aux)
- Led light bar and driving lights (off crank)


The Trailer:

Dual AGM 12v 110Ah CCA 546 RC178
Paralleled no DC/DC charging management (not adding either as I don't think it's necessary)

In the trailer is a 240v AC to DC charger is a Projecta 12v 25a 7 stage which I hook up to generator as needed or powered site and leave on when at home or powered site.


I was going to run the new items straight of the AUX battery... Inverter, work lights, AV gear & Anderson outlet on back and also upgrade the fridge wiring as I'm not happy with what's there at the same time.

The thing is now without a traxide (I think) to which I'm sure it wouldn't really matter what I did off the AUX it would charge both batteries I'm now for now I'm contemplating running all the new gear as mentioned on the AUX as stated and the Anderson plug for the trailer to the Crank battery rather than to the AUX as the piranaha can't (to my knowledge) charge the crank.

In actual fact I just hooked the solar up to the crank battery to see if it charges the AUX while the car is off to see if I'm just screwed and should get the traxide. Patiently waiting for the charge light to come on and two multi meters hooked up.

I know everyone will just say use the traxide but I was sure I could have made things work without throwing out the piranaha just yet..


Thanks,

Don

[LandyAndy]

Others have charged thru the white plug,in fact Tim Drivesafe/Traxide recommends that.25A will be too much to push thu it I would think.Using the white plug to charge means the main battery gets charged and the isolator then passes the power on to the aux.
Im up to similar,less the kiddies entertainment,except I went the Traxide 160.
For the camper trailer I have bought 2x200w panels and 2 large gel batteries,also have a Honda 2000eui genset.To manage the power Im looking at a combo solar regulator/inverter which also accepts 240v in.
See here,the unit DSWatts put me onto is what I like,unless something else comes up.
Andrew
Combined solar controller/inverter system

[DJL9999]

Yeah I'm thinking of steering clear of using the white plug wiring at this stage, I'm installing 2 runs of 125a cable which I have run beside the driver door in the cable freeway. I can see why people might like to do this as its a quick. Pretty sure that cable is 30a rated.

When the D3 and trailer is hooked up together I have another entry point in the trailer for the solar (which I forgot to mention) and I link the solar panels up (don't do that often). When the vehicle and trailer are apart which is most often the case for more than night stay I split the solar panels one for car and one for trailer - as I have 2 x (180w) sets also.

[drivesafe]

HiDon and I'm not a fan when it comes to cable being stated as being 125 amp or what ever.

There are too many sharks out there selling under sized cable and declaring it is current rated way above it's safe limit.

Do you know the actual mm2 ( millimetres square area ) of the cable and I can then give you the safe maximum current rating for it.

PS, sounds like you are having fun.

Also, are you aware that nothing should be connected to the NEGATIVE ( - ) terminal of your cranking battery.

You can connect any positive cabling to the POSITIVE ( + ) terminal of your cranking battery, but nothing can be connected to the NEGATIVE ( - ) terminal of your cranking battery.

[DJL9999]

Hi thanks.

I was pretty careful to get tycab as I've used them for years for house wiring etc specs are:

14 mm squared
stranding 168/0.32
6 gauge
125 amp rated

I'm putting a 50a fuse in at the rear before it goes out to the to hitch as I have mounted the realys and small fuse block for the lights fridge etc in the back where the useless jack was before I ripped it out

Hmm about the neg bat terminal, I wasn't, so thank you... Looks like I have a winch and electric brake wires (which I'm none to pleased about the later install, OK both of them I have to take the winch of anyway to put in a cable cover and add an isolation for switching of in the cab. Will not be too much more work to rectify that, so I should put the winch on the body? Can't quite see where the earth strap goes. Would have been nice if the previous installer did that to save me a job.

Btw the piranaha didn't charge the AUX batt with the car was off only connected to solar. So I guess your unit is the way to go..? Or persist only Charing the aux batt until I get yours which is looking very likely ..

[drivesafe]

Hi again Don, this should help with a good earth point.

These two M6 studs are mounted in the inner guard, just in front of the Cranking Battery Compartment.

I have a High Current Earth Plate kit specifically made for this earth point, so if you order a new isolator from me, the Earth Plate kit is also available.

[DJL9999]

Thanks - after sleeping on it and reading your site again, I really appreciate that your ok with wiring up my own matching in cab switch! I think I'll just go with the D3-TB1 and add the third battery (might not need battery one's shelf but I'll use your wiring so it's done properly. I was originally putting an ARB compressor infront of the main battery but started to dislike that idea anyway, that and after taking the D3 apart (such a great vehicle to work on, few cuts and bruises though ) there is plenty of room for the compressor in the rear passenger side compartment and I now have a plenty of juice, spare fuse/relay and switching wire in the rear ready to go.

D3-TB1 = USI-160 Standard Kit | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

I'll add this to next months car upgrade budget - the missus is already having kittens over it to date. haha.

[DJL9999]

Others have charged thru the white plug,in fact Tim Drivesafe/Traxide recommends that.25A will be too much to push thu it I would think.Using the white plug to charge means the main battery gets charged and the isolator then passes the power on to the aux.
Im up to similar,less the kiddies entertainment,except I went the Traxide 160.
For the camper trailer I have bought 2x200w panels and 2 large gel batteries,also have a Honda 2000eui genset.To manage the power Im looking at a combo solar regulator/inverter which also accepts 240v in.
See here,the unit DSWatts put me onto is what I like,unless something else comes up.
Andrew
Combined solar controller/inverter system

I so wanted to do something like this originally, but talked myself out of it as I think that the inconvenience of starting the generator for a couple of minutes on a non powered site so the missus can run the thermomix or the coffee machine is minimal... compared to the family becoming reasonably complacent and plugging devices in to 240v as they like and me ending up with some pretty flat and over expelled batteries, after all they see a PowerPoint and it works why not use it even though Dad said not to . So I went the other route and spent extra time and money (quite a bit less than the management system) ensuring I was running all 12v appliances, even the vacuum sealer etc. I'm even thinking of pulling the PS3 apart ripping out the 240v PSU and installing a 12v&5v output PSU as most appliances running 240v all have transformers in them or connected to them. Plugin 240v Phone chargers have been left at home and I installed USB plugs in places which surprising it maybe many rechargeable touches even have usb plugs for charging them up and storing that energy from the sun during the day.

That being said I still like the option and flexibility of the management system - not sure about is size and weight though..

[drivesafe]

Hi Don and anybody else considering buying my kits.

PLEASE NOTE, I have had so much work come in over the last few months that you need to allow at least 3 weeks delivery time when placing an order.

Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause!

[LandyAndy]

Hi Don and anybody else considering buying my kits.

PLEASE NOTE, I have had so much work come in over the last few months that you need to allow at least 3 weeks delivery time when placing an order.

Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause!

You spend too much time posting on here to get anything done
Andrew