I drilled out the 'M6 sleeve'. The hole behind it is M8.
Pete
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						SupporterIn the process of fitting Mulgo side rails to my 2015 110
They bolt to the middle and front chassis outriggers with M8 bolts
Middle looks ok ......but the two holes in the front out rigger has these anchors set in them which landrover fitted when they fitted OEM front mudflats
I think these two anchors take M6 bolts
So question .....could I use them with M6 bolts to anchor the fron of the side rials ........would M6 be strong enough ........and if I need to remove them for the supplied M8 bolts .........how do I do that ........get a good sharp drill bit and try to drill them out ......or is there another way ?
Many thanks
I drilled out the 'M6 sleeve'. The hole behind it is M8.
Pete
1963 S2A 88 113-300 6 RAR, VTF, Vietnam.
1989 Perentie FFR 49-290 2 Sig Regt.
1989 Perentie FFR 49-390 1 MP BN.
1990 Perentie GS 50-087 5 RAR.
2013 Defender 110 Wagon, 'Snowy'.
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						Supportersomething between M6 and M8 would be a good start.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
What he said 😝
Use a variable speed drill so you can take it slow.
Pete
1963 S2A 88 113-300 6 RAR, VTF, Vietnam.
1989 Perentie FFR 49-290 2 Sig Regt.
1989 Perentie FFR 49-390 1 MP BN.
1990 Perentie GS 50-087 5 RAR.
2013 Defender 110 Wagon, 'Snowy'.
Just because I was interested:
ultimate strength of an M6x1.0 8.8 bolt - 16068N
ultimate strength of an M8x1.0 8.8 bolt - 31333N
ultimate strength of an M8x1.25 8.8 bolt - 29286N
So lets just get rough - with two bolts through that outrigger...
If you just put in M6HT bolts and maybe ran a nut on the back to load up the nutsert (and not rely on it for clamping pressure) you would have something in the range of 3.2 tonnes of ultimate strength.
Probably enough eh.
Funny thing is if I was building steps Id probably use M10 x 1.0 12.9 SHCS
you know just in case the steps took a hit... oh each bolt would have an ultimate strength of of 78682N or in roughy terms with two of them about 16Tonnes!
I think it is called over enjineering
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterThanks again ......ripped into it with an 8ml bit .....left a small flange holding on .....squeezed it with pincers and then pushed it back through the hole ......nice clean 8 mm hole ...............got the sliders in place .....notice that the alignment of defender panels and doors gives a new definition to the word "straight"
But this raised another question .......on both ends the original wheel flares have the holes where I removed the plastic rivets that attached the wheel flares to the original sills ......is there any way to drill into the Mulgo rails to secure the flares .........or should I just let them drift ............if I drill and secure the flares I might let water into the rails ...leading to other problems ......any thoughts appreciated .....
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterThanks for that ......I too think M8 might be a bit light to get in a crunch between a rock and a landrover ............at some point I might upgrade to something stronger ......like an M10 ..........Mulgo supply 20 M8 bolts to hold their sliders in place ........so they seem to think it Ok .....mind you the chassis outriggers they attach to are not all that thick ........so maybe the outriggers will give before the M8's................not an engineer so could be wrong ........
I just left the bottom rivets off. Doesn't seem to affect the flare at all.
Pete
1963 S2A 88 113-300 6 RAR, VTF, Vietnam.
1989 Perentie FFR 49-290 2 Sig Regt.
1989 Perentie FFR 49-390 1 MP BN.
1990 Perentie GS 50-087 5 RAR.
2013 Defender 110 Wagon, 'Snowy'.
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