Just physically blanking it will throw up a warning light. Best, (and easiest way), is to have it disabled electronically, (and with a remap for more go), from someone like BAS.
Cheers,
I have been chatting with a few guys who claim better performance from their Fenders after having the EGR Blanked off.
I have been told this also involves re-mapping to make it effective.
I have little knowledge in this area but have to put the Edjitmobile in for some major works prior to our Mapatassie trip and was thinking of having this done at the same time if it is effective.
Any advice would be muchly appreciated.
Chenz
I do not wish to be a member of any club that would have me as a member
Former Owner of The Red Terror - 1992 Defender 200Tdi
Edjitmobile - 2008 130 Defender
Just physically blanking it will throw up a warning light. Best, (and easiest way), is to have it disabled electronically, (and with a remap for more go), from someone like BAS.
Cheers,
Heres one for you Chenz, I've been looking to do the same however I don't have the funds for the BAS so I went with the option of just unplugging the egr, now that was all well and good but it gave me the $&@#^ with the engine warning on so I plugged it back in, well last week I bought a egr from a wreckers on eBay and as an experiment I plugged it in and cabled tied it in the engine bay as not to move around and bingo no engine light on the dash and the original egr is in closed position. When i switch off the engine i can hear the spare egr going through it's cleaning cycle, So I'm going to run with that and see how it goes. If anyone has thoughts on this good or bad please voice your opinion. Cheers
Bru, hate to be the bringer of sadness, but you will still get a warning light, probably after "3 driving cycles". The warning light has more to do with airflow across the MAF than the operation of the egr.
You can blank the egr with a blanking plate that has a small hole in it. Just needs to be big enough to keep the ecu happy, from memory about 5mm does it. Still, the best option is to have it disabled electronically.
Cheers,
You've just created a free standing emulator. 😆
Well done as you saw it works but just looks dodgy...
Jc 😊
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Yep dodgy looking it is, i plan to sort that later but I'll give this a crack a while. I had been reading on some other site where the person pulled out a couple of the cogs in the egr then fitted it back on the car, the ecu thinks it's doing its work and the engine light never came on, that's the plan but it looks a bugger to get out. Any tips on that side of things
EGR is only held on by four bolts. Two 10mm hex heads to the cooler and two 8mm hex heads to the intake supply tube. With 1/4" drive I was able to get them all from within engine bay. I did have the intake manifold out though?
Which I would suggest so you can clean the manifold of soot - the whole purpose of blocking EGR is to keep induction clean so may as well clean the inlet!
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Cheers Steve with the inlet manifold is there a torque setting for tightening the bolts back up ??
From the book - 15nm using new o-rings
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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