Leak from axle

[jc109]

G'day guys,

I've recently found a lot of oil and/or grease spinning out onto my left rear wheel, and after pulling the wheel off and cleaning everything up it seems to be coming from the centre but on my HD axles.

Is this a common occurrence? And is it a simple fix? Should I just ease the nut out and use some thread tape or Loctite to stop the leak? Or might there be a bigger issue at play?

I've tried getting in touch with the guy who fitted them but no joy yet. I see he siliconed the larger flange in place, and I'm worried about disturbing that.

Lastly, if I pull the nut completely how do I gauge whether or not there's enough lube left?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,

JC

[ian4002000]

Have you cleaned your diff breather tubes lately ?
If they are blocked it may be causing the oil to leak out.


Ian
Bittern

[jimr1]

Hi JC, I think they have a fibre washer inside the nut . Check to see if it's there . They don't usually leak . Look at the one on the side that's ok . Jim

[jc109]

Cheers guys. I'll check both those things. And I said "nut" (and "but" too) earlier but I guess it's more properly a bolt or cap of some kind. Glad you knew what I was talking about.

[jc109]

So, I didn't have much luck with my investigations. All wheels look much the same and the breather's not blocked, as far as I can tell.

Unfortunately I don't have a spanner or socket large enough for the centre cap, so I have to take it to a mechanic to check. I did so today and it's now booked in for two days this week. The guy didn't see it, but he diagnosed a seal problem (of course) and also said that once oil sprays around in there the rotor can't be cleaned and instead needs to be replaced. Sounds like garbage to me. Should I be more trusting?

IMG_4859.JPGIMG_4860.JPG

[jboot51]

There is a good chance that the usual oil conversion has been done to feed the wheel bearings.
If so there is only the rear hub seal to worry about.
If this leaks it will put oil over the rear of the wheel and the brakes.
The seal I use is RTC3511G, but this is for a 1995 Salisbury rear.
The inner seal would have been removed.
The five bolt HD flange can be sealed with RTV silicone.
The big nut on the flange I seal with RTV on the mating surfaces, do not put any on the thread.
Not sure what diff you have.
I would change the brake pads only after confirming the leak has been fixed.
I do not see any need to change the rotor.
I would not take it to a normal mechanic as they would not understand the oil conversion.
You need a LR mechanic.


Where abouts in QLD are you ?


Cheers,
Tony

[weeds]

Is the oil leaking from the drive flange??

You should be able to pop the flange off...5 bolts than re-seal.

If the oil is on the inside of the hub disc than it hub off and new seal.

I would be trying to get it back to the guy that did the upgrade.

[jc109]

Cheers guys.

I'm in Wynnum, and I've had to try someone new as the work was done in WA. The guy I've stumbled upon has a few green ovals out the front and seemed to know what I was talking about when I started explaining the issue. I'd go to M.R. if I had the time to go all that way.

I tried calling the fella who did it to pick his brains a bit but he's not responding.

Weeds, the leak seems to be from the cap only. Not the flange itself. You can just see a little trail of oil coming from it in the second photo above.

Tony, there seems to be white silicone sealing the other mating surfaces but I can't tell what's been done with the cap.

And I'm pretty sure no oil lube conversion took place. The only tweak that was done to the standard swap job was something along the lines of machining the cap or flange so the wheels fit. Make sense?

Anyway, I guess I can take it in and see what they say. Any talk of the rotor needing replacement and I drive off.

[gromit]

So, I didn't have much luck with my investigations. All wheels look much the same and the breather's not blocked, as far as I can tell.

On mine the breather fitting in the axle rusted internally & blocked.
It's worthwhile disconnecting the tube from the fitting (push the outer collar while pulling on the tube) then remove the fitting and check it's clear.

I work in the pneumatics industry so it was easy to get a replacement from work, otherwise clear it out with a drill, piece of wire or using an airline.

The original fitting seems to be zinc passivated steel, condensation eventually causes rust which slowly blocks the fitting. My replacement was nickel plated brass so hopefully no more issues.


Colin

[jc109]

Thanks Colin. Will take a closer look.