Disappointed with Towbar

[Walruslike]

I'm so disappointed with my brand new $1550 dealer installed towbar.

I could see the problems coming and yet I still went and did it.

From reading on here (thanks guys) I could see that I basically had two options that I could consider... Hayman Reece third party install or LR dealer install.

Knowing that there could be computer problems with incorrectly installed wiring I thought I'd play it safe. I know some here have had good results with non genuine gear and installs but I've also read of issues created in the computer and electrics... so I chickened and paid double for dealer.

I knew there were three potential problems with a dealer install... (four if you count cosmetic):

1. The fail to recognise LED's issue
2. The risk of dealer placing plug too close to safety chain points for access.
3. The small nonstandard tongue size.
4. Cosmetically the ugly fat white LR socket cover looks bad against a black car.

So I mitigated them.... I specifically told the dealer of the LED issue and he said the later models (mine is MY13) have LEDs as tail lights so it's not an issue.

I mentioned the plug/safety chain closeness issue and he said that wouldn't be an issue.

I read that you can get the smaller square accessories.... just not as common.

Lastly I asked for a 7 pin round small socket so I figured that solves the ugly fat white thing issue.

Fail......partial fail......acceptable.....fail.

1. The bloody thing doesn't recognise that a trailer is connected.

2. I misunderstood matters and the chain connector point is deep down and well away from the ball towards car front. It's not very difficult to get to.... just stupidly inconvenient by design.

3. I don't need accessories like bike rack just now so can ignore the rarity aspect.

4. Instead of replacing the big ugly white plug with the smaller black one they installed a extension plate and now both plugs are there.

Sigh. It's not necessarily the dealers fault... I might not have been specific enough about replacing the fat white... I simply said I needed a small 7 pin round.

So it's all fixable with effort but it's disappointing to pay so much for such a unhappy result.

But that's just the beginning... the real problem is how low and close to the bumper bar the ball sits. I can lower on to it just... but then can't lift the jockey wheel away because it won't screw down enough to slide out when it's all so low. And you need to be bloody accurate with distance... An inch too far while backing back and you'll have a dent in the bumper bar.

It seems ludicrously low and close in under the bumper. I'm sure the Hayman Reece setup would have been much better. If I inverted the towball onto the other side of the offset base so it lifted it up then it would be much higher and better except then I think it would be hard up against the bumper.

So after $1550 I'm still nowhere yet and will still need to bugarise around with it or the dealer to make it all work.

My advice... don't get the genuine towbar.

[Walruslike]

Hmm... its left me with a few questions... any advice would be most appreciated...


1. Has anyone reversed the ball to lift it up? Is it too close to bumper then?


2. Cheapest least troublesome fix for detecting trailer seems to be install a bulbed turn indicator at each side of trailer. Any better ones?


3. Is it possible via some menu to tell the car that it should be in tow mode?


4. What changes when you do... I think it stops the beeping from rear obstacle when in reverse.... does it also do something to the Dynamic Stability Control program to change car behaviour?


If it does... what changes?


Thnaks for any advice or info.

[Ferret]

2. Cheapest least troublesome fix for detecting trailer seems to be install a bulbed turn indicator at each side of trailer. Any better ones?

3. Is it possible via some menu to tell the car that it should be in tow mode?


4. What changes when you do... I think it stops the beeping from rear obstacle when in reverse.... does it also do something to the Dynamic Stability Control program to change car behaviour?

If it is anything like a Disco4 (which it probably is since you say your Freelander already has LED lights) then a $12-15 resistor installed in parallel with the trailer turning lights is all that is needed to fix these kinds of issues. Take a look in the 'L319 Discovery 3 and 4' forum section. Plenty of info there.

[bnicho]

As I understand it, with your 2013, you don't need a "trailer module". Since you have the two plugs in UK style, then I would assume you have the later type factory plug in loom. Look under the spare wheel cover and check if the big grey socket on the passenger side has a plug inserted in it.

The next thing is the dealer needs to turn the trailer module on in the ECU. If they have not done that I would be going back and raising merry hell about it. Have you tried plugging in a trailer with non-LED lights? Someone mentioned an inline Ford part that can be used to provide resistance for LED trailers.

I have to say, I find it rather disappointing that a modern vehicle can't cope with LED trailer lights. If you bought a new trailer today you would struggle to find one with standard bulbs. My Moke, with a modern flasher can, and my wife's 2009 Nissan have no issues with trailer lights - LED's or not!

For my own Freebie, being older, I needed the module. I ordered the towing module from Rimmers. Last weekend I rewired the loom so it matches Australian 7-pin large socket standards. I reused the blue "fog" wire as electric brakes and moved the brown/green?? 12v permanent wire across from the white plug to the remaining pin on the black plug. (All my cars and trailers/caravans are wired this way.) I capped off all the unused wires with heatshrink and then taped them back on the loom so it's all waterproof and neat. But i have not fitted it yet, and I know I will still need a mate's Nanocom to tell the car the module is there.

I ordered a Haymann Reese bar just yesterday. Cheapest I could find was $591 delivered and I will have to fit it myself. I hope to have it this weekend.

I noted on eBay that Reese Towpower, Curt and Draw-Tite branded two inch hitch receiver bars are available for the "LR2" for about $300-350 delivered to Aus! Rated for 4000lbs (1800kg) gross and 400lbs (180kg) ball load. Unfortunately they do not necessarily meet Australian standards, so if you have a problem you may be in the soup with your insurers. I decided it wasn't worth that risk. They also seem to mount rather low and seem to have been designed for ease of fitment rather than looks.

[Walruslike]

Yeah thanks for that... you may be right... The dealer said bring it back and we will check we got it all right... Maybe they forgot the program tweak.



Yes I have the big plug... I don't get why there's two... I only wanted one. Under the spare cover the wiring seems all neat and secured. I can't find the plug you refer to.

I'm buggered if I know what to do about the ball height.... Reversing it won't work I think because it will be too close to the bumper then.

I may just have to modify the trailer to accommodate a lower tow height.... but that's more money and hassle



You might catch a glimpse of my work boots.

[bnicho]

Quality safety boots!

I forgot, the grey socket is under a cover in the passenger side of the boot. If you undo the plastic nut that is holding the velcro strap onto the side of the boot you can pull the cover away and access the grey socket and plug.

The 12N or Normal socket (black) is in the Uk standard is wired basically the same as our 7-pin standard. When towing a trailer in the UK, it normally only needs this socket. The difference is, the UK standard has wires for the left and right tail light seperately, and a rear fog light. Neither of these matter in Australia as we don't legally need fog lights on trailers and we don't care which side of the car powers our trailer tail lights!

Unfortunately the wire occupied by the RH tail light is used in Australia for electric brakes. That means if your tail lights come on and you have a trailer plugged in equipped with electric brakes, the brakes will lock on.

Similarly, the wire usually used in Australia for 12v permanent feed is occupied by the rear fog lights in the UK standard.

The 12S (white) Supplementary socket includes extra items for Caravans - 12v permanent, 12v ignition switched, reverse lights, parking sensors etc. Stuff most of us will never use, and even if we did our Caravans would not fit the socket anyway.

You can find more details here:
Electrics & Wiring Options: Polar Automotive, Tonbridge, Kent

Cheers,

[Rextheute]

Have a look at the Hayman Reece catalogue - maybe get o longer younger to move the ball a bit further out .
Not too far as it will create a bit of leverage and possibly reduce the ball load capacity .
I have a catalogue at work , but you can download a DPF if easier .

[Rextheute]

The translation is a " longer tounge " ..... Autocorrect is incorrect !

[Walruslike]

Hehe... Damned Autocorrect causes me all sorts of grief.

I doubt I can go with a longer tongue... the Land Rover reciever is only 40mm not 50mm like a proper one...

Thinner and longer sounds unlikely.

Today it went to dealer and they admitted defeat.... It was programmed ok... It's just that as expected the LED lights don't draw enough to sense it properly.

So as it stands after two days at dealers and $1500 plus spent, I now have to modify the jockey wheel mount and add some side lights with bulbs. Sigh.... Don't get the land rover bar.... Save your money.

Also I have confirmed (at least to my satisfaction) that the tow mode has effects on the stability programming as well as gearbox mapping. So it's important to get the vehicle to recognise a trailer is hitched... it's more than just an annoying beep in reverse.

This would have been a very simple thing for LR to rectify over the last few years.... other manufacturers have. A bit disappointing.

Still.... I really love this new (to me) FreeLander2.

[Walruslike]

Please help with advice....

I've reversed the towball and found the height is only an inch or two too low now. But the handle on the ball catcher is too close to bumper on angle changes and also in tight turns.

I need some way to get the drawbar higher and the handle further back. The photos show that the cable brake is mounted an inch or so above the drawbar presumably to allow the mount bolts some room.

Can anyone suggest a modification, or a place that can do it, in the Brisbane area? Aspinal trailers said they wouldn't be comfortable modifying the trailer.

The last photo is before I reversed the tongue and ball so it's now angled up and closer to bumper.