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Thread: Hubcap issues

  1. #1
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Hubcap issues

    On my recent trip to Yass, I lost the LH front hubcap. Made a makeshift repair for the trip home, and replaced the cap, using some silicone to try and ensure it stayed on.

    Made another trip to town yesterday, and found I was getting some oil leaking from under the new cap. Then, this morning, noted that the RH front cap had popped off as it was parked.

    I have moved the car into the workshop to further investigate, but what I am suspecting is a blocked breather to the front axle, possibly combined with the hubcaps softening given the forty plus temperatures we are getting (yesterday it was still above forty just on dark!).

    But I don't think I will be doing much in the shed until it cools down a bit!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Well, my 130 failed rego for an oil leak!!!! rear hub seal. When I opened the breather, the single hole was choked to billio. So I drilled it through to make two holes, no problem since....
    Gumnut

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    FWIW I have found that hubcaps which are generic non-genuine LR parts are more likely to leak and/or come off.

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    This morning I have cleaned everything up and replaced the hubcaps. I removed the breather fitting on the axle, and it may have been blocked, but blew out easily with compressed air, so not very solidly blocked. Also blew through the tubing up to the firewall, and it is definitely not blocked.

    The hubcaps I have are far softer than the originals, especially with the weather we have had lately, and I wonder if this is what the problem is.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    A bit of silicon glue smeared into the groove on the drive flange helps keep my cheapo hub caps on.

    Edward

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    That is exactly what I did!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    That is exactly what I did!

    John
    John, I have found that unless the areas you are applying Silicone to are spotlessly clean and free of grease/oil residue then the Silicone will fail.
    I use straight Acetone/Carby/throttle body cleaner/Brake cleaner/Aerostart (cans)or some other toxic cleaner to get rid of any ingrained oil/grease usually not removed when normally cleaned.
    I gather that the hub caps are the rubber ones, will a metal hub cap fit, I have a few diffs at workshop so I'll have a look and if their suitable I'll post them to you, let you know this arvo and get your postal address, Regards frank.

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    John, I have found that unless the areas you are applying Silicone to are spotlessly clean and free of grease/oil residue then the Silicone will fail.
    I use straight Acetone/Carby/throttle body cleaner/Brake cleaner/Aerostart (cans)or some other toxic cleaner to get rid of any ingrained oil/grease usually not removed when normally cleaned.
    I gather that the hub caps are the rubber ones, will a metal hub cap fit, I have a few diffs at workshop so I'll have a look and if their suitable I'll post them to you, let you know this arvo and get your postal address, Regards frank.
    Thanks for the offer Frank. The metal Series ones are quite a lot deeper, but might work.

    One of my long term ideas I have never got round to following up on is to make some alloy ones. Just need to find dome free machining alloy stock, and turn to size - positive location with one or two grub screws into the groove, and seal with an O-ring in an internal groove in the cap.

    I used degreaser followed by mineral turps to clean the surfaces.

    Another thought I had might be to turn a steel ring perhaps 10mm wide and 2mm thick that can be driven over the outside of the soft cap, preventing it from expanding to get out of the groove.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Thanks for the offer Frank. The metal Series ones are quite a lot deeper, but might work.

    One of my long term ideas I have never got round to following up on is to make some alloy ones. Just need to find dome free machining alloy stock, and turn to size - positive location with one or two grub screws into the groove, and seal with an O-ring in an internal groove in the cap.

    I used degreaser followed by mineral turps to clean the surfaces.

    Another thought I had might be to turn a steel ring perhaps 10mm wide and 2mm thick that can be driven over the outside of the soft cap, preventing it from expanding to get out of the groove.

    John
    Mineral Turps will leave a residue behind, really need a toxic solvent that will evaporate off, thinners would do, I'll get back to you after I get back from the workshop, Regards Frank.

    P.S. John, just checked the SIII I have in the front yard (mid 70's) it has metal hub caps on the rear axle, would they fit, if you don't know send me the I.D. of the hub in inches (my caliper is in inches).

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Frank, I don't have to - I have plenty of the metal Series hubcaps and while they are very close, they are a loose fit on the 110 drive flanges.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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