Couple of questions.
Any trailers/vans connected?
Any other electrical loads such as fridges in use?
Any second battery system fitted?
Do you have a scan tool with you?
Hey Gents,
Could use some advice. On the highway - all of a sudden, all windows opened and rear view mirrors retracted. Managed to close all windows except driver's window now stays open.
Tried switching off the car. Nothing is working so far.
Thanks,
Steven
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Couple of questions.
Any trailers/vans connected?
Any other electrical loads such as fridges in use?
Any second battery system fitted?
Do you have a scan tool with you?
I would try a hard reset before anything else Steven. Even just disconnecting the battery and reconnecting after 1-2 minutes should be enough for full reset of all ECUs. It's quite simple to disconnect the negative terminal. Electrical gremlins often seem to relate back to an unhealthy battery although your symptoms are not common. Having said that, if the driver window is not responding at all, that could point towards a dodgy connection related to the window switch pack or the window motor. As always checking for fault codes is likely to be instructive. Not sure if you know anyone with one (fault reading is not VIN locked).
Good luck,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberThis may help with finding someone with a diagnostic tool
Members with Diagnostic Equipment map (updated 1/2015)
Members with Diagnostic Tools
- Justin
Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
VK2HFJ
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Could be the wiring to the window control switches on the driver door too. It's the "master control" point.
I have a scan tool if that helps. Currently up at Rainbow Beach until tomorrow morning, then heading back to the Sunshine Coast.
Thanks for the input, gents - really appreciate it.
I just tried a hard reset, Scott. No effect.
Checked fuses, relays, etc. Seem to be fine.
It's probably the mirrors/windows control bundle. I pulled off the door card and played around with as much wiring as I could, but none of it helped.
Last year, when I was on Fraser, I had the window down and quite a bit of water splashed inside at some point - enough to make the speaker grille rust. I suspect that this current problem is associated with that little incident.
Now we're stuck in Cobargo, 5 hours to go until we get to Sydney. Very reluctant to drive the whole way with the window down - storms are forecast for most of the afternoon. Waiting for roadside assist.
Steven
If you have the door card off maybe you could unplug the window motor and tickle it into action with some jumper leads.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi Steven, if you've had salt water in the switch block you may be able to get going by removing the switch assembly, pulling it apart & giving it a good clean with a firm toothbrush & metho. You're looking for small tendril like tracks between the switch contacts and these can/will conduct small amounts of electricity due to the salt content, particularly in humid conditions.
Don't forget to look at the connector to the wiring loom, in between the pins. In fact start there before you pull the switch block apart.
Given your description of Fraser Island it's unlikely to be the cabling at all.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks