Replace Brake Pads D4 3.0L

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

Yes, I'm risking starting a new thread that's already been covered elsewhere (although I've searched high & low for 'definitive answers')...

I've just got my 'brake pad worn' indicator come up. My MY10 3.0L D4 has ~189k kms on the clock. The brakes were changed not long after I took ownership (~85k kms), but not sure if that was front/back/both etc. I think at least 2 of the rotors were changed then too - I need to go back and find out what was actually done (if I can find the receipt)...

So, I'll be up for new pads (plus wear sensors) and possibly discs. I'm keen to try the Akebono's that have been talked about on other threads, but I can't find a complete set of answers to my questions...

Can I get Akebono pads to suit the front and rear of the 3.0L?
For those who changed discs at the same time - what is best? It appears that most comments advocate sticking with the OEM discs...
If I change my pad type (to Akebono), do I have to change the discs, or just wait until they wear down?

For most of the information I've seen, these are the related posts that I could find:
Akebono Brake pads- Anyone tried them?
"Worn Brakes" warning - 38k

Any advice/info much appreciated!

Thanks.

Rob

[DiscoJeffster]

I just did the rears on my D4 3.0L. I didn't go the traditional route, instead going with Pagid pads and in the end DBA sports rotors (as the Bosch rotors I was going to go with were out of stock). They've been fine. No noise, little dust. As for Akebono, I don't think they do a complete set for the 3.0L D4.

[eddomak]

Yes, I'm risking starting a new thread that's already been covered elsewhere (although I've searched high & low for 'definitive answers')...
Can I get Akebono pads to suit the front and rear of the 3.0L?

Last I checked (last year) you couldn't get them for the 3.0L

For those who changed discs at the same time - what is best? It appears that most comments advocate sticking with the OEM discs...

I feel I got better performance from my OEM discs.
There were a couple of days where I had my old discs with new pads, and it felt better than when I changed subsequently changed my discs to DBA.

[BMKal]

I had all four rotors replaced when I had the Akebono pads installed. OEM rotors were used, plus new OEM wear sensors front and rear. Barbagallos did the full job when the car was in for a regular service, and they have been monitoring the performance / wear of the Akebono pads since installation (they are very impressed by them).

I probably didn't need to replace the rotors at the time, but thought that it would be better for comparison purposes if the new type of pads were installed with new rotors, rather than partially worn ones. I have never noticed any difference at all in braking performance between the original OEM set-up and what I now have. The only noticeable differences so far are significantly reduced wear rate (as reported by Barbagallo service department) and a complete absence of brake dust on my wheels.

[cjc_td5]

Last I checked (last year) you couldn't get them for the 3.0L

I found this last year also (for rears).
I ended up using Bendix 4WD pads, no issues so far.
Chris

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

So, just to tidy this thread up...

Replaced all 4 rotors, pads and 2 sensors, plus replaced the brake fluid (190k, and I'm pretty sure it hasn't been done since new ).

• Rotors - Bought 4xRDA rotors from the good guys at Rovacraft - really can't justify the cost of any of the other options (2x cost for Pedders discs, 4x cost for OEM discs). Also bought the sensors here too.
• Rear pads - Bought Akebono pads for the rear (still only rear pads available for 3.0L). Same price as Pedders Trakryder pads, ~2x price of 'generic' pads, and ~1/2 price of OEM pads.
• Front pads - Bought Pedders Trackryder pads for the front - reasonably priced (not cheapest, but still 1/2 price of OEM pads). They are ceramic/kevlar something-or-other, and are supposed to be pretty good. I'll let you know on that....
• Brake fluid - was a bit of a mission... Managed to source some Penrite Super Dot 4ESP (ISO4925 Class6 compliant) at my local AutoOne store. Everyone else could sell me Super Dot4 fluid, but not one complying with the Class6 requirement. At the end of the day, how critical is it??? Not sure, but better to stay within manufacturer spec if possible... Costs ~3x as much as standard Dot 4 fluid (~$16/500mL), but apparently it's specifically for larger vehicles with ESP

All up ~$820 for parts...

The job itself is pretty easy, although took a little while to get going (ie first one took a couple of hours, but last one was done in 1/2hr)...
And Bodsy's Brake Bible was a great aid!

Thanks.

Rob