Intercooler Replacement

[D9Oh..]

Hi Folks,

Fitting a BAS Hi-Flo intercooler to my 2012 2.2 90 (with air con). Looking at the "easiest" way to remove and replace. Taking the air-con radiator off the front involves breaking the refrigerant supply lines, don't want to do that. Taking the main coolant radiator out first means breaking and draining all the coolant lines, don't want to do that.

Taking the intercooler out vertically means removing the bonnet latch cross member, shown below. But that is held in place by 4 studs or bolts that penetrate up behind the headlight bodywork? I can feel the back of those stud bolts but can't see how they are held in place.

Before I go too far and disassemble stuff I don't need to, am I missing the "easy" option??

Can the intercooler be replaced without taking out the main or air-con radiators as well?

Help appreciated.

D90h..

[patclan]

I didn't take the air con radiator out, I took the bolts out of the frame and pulled it slightly back to get the intercooler in and out.

To take the cross member out I put nuts on top of the existing stud and nut and locked them up then undid the existing nut, two of my studs came out which was fine, I just replaced them with bolts.

Found this on the forum from another member, pretty much how i did mine, had it in and out a few time now but that's another story.

Allisport intercooler installation


Pat

[skidrov]

I also followed the guide above. And, I wrote up my supplementary experiences on the installation in this thread: Bell Auto Services Hi-flow Intercooler. Any comments or reviews?

In short, it's tight, but I managed to do it (just) without removing the AC or the radiator. My car's a 2.4; don't know if that will make a difference, but probably not.

[dazzler]

I didn't take the air con radiator out, I took the bolts out of the frame and pulled it slightly back to get the intercooler in and out.

To take the cross member out I put nuts on top of the existing stud and nut and locked them up then undid the existing nut, two of my studs came out which was fine, I just replaced them with bolts.

Found this on the forum from another member, pretty much how i did mine, had it in and out a few time now but that's another story.

Allisport intercooler installation


Pat

Adding to Pat' guide:

Assuming you are still looking. I used a monkey plier to remove the crossmember studs as you wont re sue them, B-A-S kit comes with replacement bolts.

Also whilst you are at it you may want to fix the droopy wings as well.

[D9Oh..]

Thanks for all the tips guys, patclan, dazzler, skidrov, fitted the BAS intercooler and silicone hoses today. Hands all bruised and sore from trying to get access, man that is tight to get the turbo to intercooler hose fitted. I ended up taking out the lower section of the fan shroud out which made things easier.

I gave up on the final silicone hose elbow, the one that fits into the air intake manifold on the left side of the engine block. That just looks too hard unless you take out the front left wheel and plastic shroud, or all of the heater hoses and the air con ducting.

Has anyone put this in, or like me you get to 5 o-clock Sunday and think, screw it...!

Now to the fun bit, the BAS remap.

[D9Oh..]

Oh man, failed at the last hurdle...

• Fitted the unlocked ECU from BAS, check,
• Dowloaded the BAS Upload software onto computer, check,
• Uploaded the firmware from the net onto the remap remote control dongle, check,
• Downloaded the BAS App onto my phone, check,
• Plugged everything into car, turned ignition on, everything connected, check,
• No custom ECU file to flash across, damn
• Back inside, relooked at help notes on BAS website, relooked at posts on AULRO, can't work it out.

Will stop before I break something, will contact BAS tomorrow, seems like I need access to the custom files, the "remap" that I can't find on the web and its not coming across when I load the files from the internet to the remote control dongle...

Time for a beer!

[roverrescue]

Just email BAS
Pete is a machine and must never sleep
I duffled my 2.4 remap and thought I had bricked the ecu
In a panic I Emailed Bas who sorted it out calmly!
When I checked it ended up being 11pm on a Sunday night his time???

Phenomenal service

S

[D9Oh..]

Yep, I agree, Pete at BAS is obviously used to dealing with people who mess up the process.

I didn't even e-mail him, he was watching my repeated attempts to download the Custom file and e-mailed me with a link to some detailed instructions, and that was on a Sunday....so yes, very appreciative of his efforts.

It turns out that by bizarre consequence, my vehicle battery has tipped below critical voltage due to inactivity and being 5+yrs old. So halfway through Step 3 of the new ECU programme sequence, glitches and errors and much panic on my side. Pete suggested checking the battery, 11.75v, useless.

So it's currently on charge and I will try again tonight, fingers crossed.

D9Oh..

[JayBoRover]

I gave up on the final silicone hose elbow, the one that fits into the air intake manifold on the left side of the engine block. That just looks too hard unless you take out the front left wheel and plastic shroud, or all of the heater hoses and the air con ducting.

Has anyone put this in, or like me you get to 5 o-clock Sunday and think, screw it...!

Now to the fun bit, the BAS remap.

Yes, I have replaced both intercooler hoses with silicon ones and yes, the air intake side one is a right bugger! Did you use T-bar clamps to replace the standard hose clamps?

[D9Oh..]

After 2 days of trying to complete this with a dying starter battery, new battery, re-program and whoosh, all systems go. Very happy to have the Landy running again. Can't wait to try out the new tune on the weekend.

thanks again to Pete at BAS for reaching out to me on a Sunday.