Hi Ean.
This thread talks about a reset being needed after a change of battery. Might be something to look at for trouble shooting.
Computer Reset after Battery Change
Martin
Gday All,
I removed the battery today and in the course of doing it I dropped a nut down behind the fuse box . I ended up removing the negative lead for ease to get to it , I retreived the nut and put things back together and after starting the car up my battery light now stay's on and the battery is NOT charging. I checked that all was tight and still no luck.
I ended up putting on my spare alternator and I still have the same issue. I have a separate lead from my alternator and there is no charge either before the inline fuse or after it.I find it hard to believe I have 2 dead alternators , especially when the one that was on the car has only done 10,000ks
I can only assume I have left a earth lead off or something when I have removed the negative lead from behind the fuse box or something silly like that OR when I have had the magnet down in the spaghetti junction behind the fuse box I have damaged something. I looked at the 5amp fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay and it seemed ok , but changed it anyway , I still have the same issue.
Does anyone know if there are any other things I should be looking for .
Cheers Ean
Hi Ean.
This thread talks about a reset being needed after a change of battery. Might be something to look at for trouble shooting.
Computer Reset after Battery Change
Martin
Could be different on yours but on mine (MY14) the BMS module on the negative lead appears quite delicate and has a small cable that looks like an earth coming off it. Perhaps this got left off during reinstall or something got damaged. Can you confirm the battery is healthy thus eliminating that as the issue? If the battery is actually healthy and the alternator is too then my guess is something has happened to the BMS.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Gday Scott,
Where is the small BMS wire you speak of ? is it actually on the negative lead or does it fit onto the earth stud behind the fuse box. This is the sort of thing I think could be the issue. I am confident that all was ok with the original alternator , but just to see I changed it and the exact same thing. The battery has good charge and started the car no problems at all, but the multimeter is showing no charge at all coming from the alternator wire at the battery.
I am sure it is something simple like that but this all happened at 4.30 pm so I didn't have to much daylight left to try to much.
Cheers Ean
I believe both these circled small wires relate to the BMS. Both are small and fragile and have been known to be damaged. It might be something to explore.
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2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
That first photo is the positive cable isn't it? The small cable circled in the second photo where you can see G14 on the battery is the one I meant as being small and delicate. I don't know about behind the fuse box, that's a dark crevice I haven't had to access so far.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
BattMon.jpg
Both wires are related to the BMS as you can work out when you review the wiring diagram above. Wire colours NU and UN (Brown Blue, Blue Brown) on both positive and negative terminals.
The D3 must be different as I don't see any of that stuff on either terminal. I will have to check that there are no wires behind the fuse box that do the same job. Looking at the D3 wire diagram the only thing I can see is the field wire to the 5amp fuse in the fuse box.
Cheers Ean
The car is showing fault code P0626 open circuit to battery .
cheers Ean
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