Broken fuel lines

[cj5350]

So.. was swapping the fuel pump in my td5 130 and I guess the fuel lines where brittle as three snapped at the tank... any suggestions of how to fix them

[strangy]

Is it the line or the fitting or the pump housing?
The line can be repaired with 5/16 fuel injector hose and joiner barbs.
NB The high pressure side of the pump needs hose capable of at least 80psi.
I recently posted a thread on an additional fuel filter where you can clearly see the fittings and alternative hose if that helps

[rar110]

I have a 2008 RRV. The push button connector on one of the fuel lines coming off the the filter housing spontaneously broke about a week ago. The hose was ok. Had to buy the whole part. I replaced the part with fuel hose and screw clamps until the new part arrived.

[cj5350]

Is it the line or the fitting or the pump housing?
The line can be repaired with 5/16 fuel injector hose and joiner barbs.
NB The high pressure side of the pump needs hose capable of at least 80psi.
I recently posted a thread on an additional fuel filter where you can clearly see the fittings and alternative hose if that helps

Strangy... I can get the barbs off the disco wreck I have but any trick fitting them to the original plastic lines?

[strangy]

Tricks yes...
As you have no doubt discovered they are very tight fit.
To use original line and barb you will need a heat gun, an open frame type caulking gun, a pipe flaring die and some ingenuity.
No it's not s Monty python joke.
Clamping the original line in the flare tool die and then this fits in the nozzle end of the caulking gun.
The original barb then is position and located on the caulking gun plunger.
Apply some gentle heat and gently squeeze the trigger to push the barb home.
There is a YouTube vid somewhere on this.
Nylon Fuel line fitting attachment - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
scroll to the end of page 1 for the pics.
However
If it was the hose which was damaged.I suggest using the metal/brass joiner barbs to the original line then from these to the original plastic barb via a section of the 5/16 injector hose and clamps. Much easier and less chance of barb damage.

[cj5350]

Tricks yes...
As you have no doubt discovered they are very tight fit.
To use original line and barb you will need a heat gun, an open frame type caulking gun, a pipe flaring die and some ingenuity.
No it's not s Monty python joke.
Clamping the original line in the flare tool die and then this fits in the nozzle end of the caulking gun.
The original barb then is position and located on the caulking gun plunger.
Apply some gentle heat and gently squeeze the trigger to push the barb home.
There is a YouTube vid somewhere on this.
Nylon Fuel line fitting attachment - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
scroll to the end of page 1 for the pics.
However
If it was the hose which was damaged.I suggest using the metal/brass joiner barbs to the original line then from these to the original plastic barb via a section of the 5/16 injector hose and clamps. Much easier and less chance of barb damage.

I showed one of the lines to the local hose place and even he said the lines had gotten hard and brittle ...

i ended up salvaging the fitting and with new hose making up new lines... problem is the known good replacement pump as also noisey ( sounds like air ) and now won't start... starting to think the air bleed might be stuffed

[cj5350]

so still won't start.... swapped out fuel filter and continued to bleed the air out of the system and still now start... been thought two batteries full of charge now is doesn't sound even remotely like starting... no nanocom errors

gave it a little aero start and got a cough out of her... glow plug light come on and pump sounds good..

only other thing I can think of is a stuffed my water sensor swapping filters.... is there a engine kill as part of the sensor?

[strangy]

I think you may have a line connected on the wrong port.
Water sensor won't affect it.

[cj5350]

Hope not.. got it plumbed like the diagram says

[cj5350]

Ok, so it's up and running again... checked everything again and nothing.. pulled the line at the reg... plentiful flow...
read somewhere that if the voltage drops below 11.5v when cranking it won't fire the injections.
So while my battery was cranking fine it's was dropping...
Swapped it out and started first kick..

thanks all all for your help