TD5 head gasket and midlife rebuild parts list

[Fubar]

G'day,

Following on from another thread of mine I have a 130 TD5 that has managed to get to 230k on the clock before the head gasket let go. Mulling over pulling the TD5 and slotting in a 4BD1T, but even full DIY it is a costly and long process....and there should be at least another 150,000km's left in the TD5 short block (reports vary wildly).

I'm looking at addressing the head repair as a midlife engine rebuild and have knocked up a parts/repair list. The heads out of the truck and is inside spec for re-use.

Am I missing something you would consider a critical repair that should be undertaken at 230k? .......like the t/chain guides, injector service/replace etc?

Repair or replace

Oil cooler
Oil cooler seal


Centrifugal housing gasket
Filter housing gasket


Injector seals
Injector harness
Rocker cover seals and grommets


Cam plugs - both ends
Any freeze plugs I can get to


Turbo oil lines seals/gaskets


Glow plug boots


Head gasket
Exhaust gasket
Intake clean and Gaskets


Fuel reg gaskets


All coolant hoses

• Top hose
• Bottom hose
• Heater hoses
• Short hose
• Fuel cooler hoses

Engine sensors
Not sure on this as they are easy to change out but a few might be due for replacement.


Radiator



Already Done


Thermostat done
Oil pump bolt
Rear main
Sump gasket
Waterpump done
Turbo hoses already done with silicones
Engine mounts done
Starter done
Fan hub
Belts
Exhaust & manifold stud upgrade

I've built many a SBC, but this is my first foray in to CRD...I have a diesel fitter BIL, also a TD5 130 owner, to lean on for the finer details on re-assembly.

I'm the lucky one out of us who gets to dissamble their TD5 first.

Cheers,

Jason

[REDTD5110]

My TD5 is still unopened at almost 400k, so when i do my head gasket I'll be doing everything you've stated, plus timing chain and timing chain guides. The bottom end should be good for much longer yet.
P.S. the TD5 isn't a CRD

[nismine01]

I have just done the head gasket on my TD5 at 340,000k.

As for the block it looks as though it would go another million k, the crosshatching is just like it came out of the factory.

JIC, crosshatching is the marks left by the hone when assembling up the engine in the factory.

I could find no movement with the pistons in the bore either, more than happy.

Cheers

Mike

[Fubar]

My TD5 is still unopened at almost 400k, so when i do my head gasket I'll be doing everything you've stated, plus timing chain and timing chain guides. The bottom end should be good for much longer yet.
P.S. the TD5 isn't a CRD

Thanks for the vote of TD5 confidence, 400k unopened is a solid run and yeah....I thoughtlessly chucked CRD in there to describe any computer controlled diesel.

[whitey56]

If you find some "glow plugs boots" i would appreciate a heads up, i had a look on the net looks like you have to buy a full engine harness to get them, i did mine with a couple of layer of shrink tubing which looks good.
Good luck with the job, the only thing i can input is to buy a long breaker bar, when i loosened my head bolts [bloody tight] i used a standard length bar with a pipe and rounded one of the stupid Torx heads at the rear, now that was fun getting out, i think with the longer bar i would have had more control over everything.

[Fubar]

If you find some "glow plugs boots" i would appreciate a heads up, i had a look on the net looks like you have to buy a full engine harness to get them, i did mine with a couple of layer of shrink tubing which looks good.
Good luck with the job, the only thing i can input is to buy a long breaker bar, when i loosened my head bolts [bloody tight] i used a standard length bar with a pipe and rounded one of the stupid Torx heads at the rear, now that was fun getting out, i think with the longer bar i would have had more control over everything.

Mine popped off with a crack from a 500mm half inch bar, none of them were what I would call difficult.....very similar to a short bolt type petrol head in my experience. There may be a correlation between the lack of difficulty in undoing the head bolts and the fact the head gasket failed.

Looks like I will be doing the same thing with heat shrink. My glow plugs look almost 100% so I'll seal them up with heat shrink and call it done.

[nismine01]

The glow plug rubber coating is what gets brittle and breaks up.

Inside that is a hard plastic shield.

With mine I put the hard plastic shield back on and used that self adhering silicone tape. You pull it up very very tight and it bonds to itself and stays there.

I now have pretty blue boots on my glow plugs. It's not hard to do and the tape is about $10.00 a roll, 1 is plenty.


Cheers

Mike