Defender 2016 Chassis

[Dallas]

Hi all,

I recently had a few days camping up the beach. When while pulling a bogged Kombi out of a bog on the beach I ripped a nice slot in my nice 2016 Defender 110's driver side chassis rail. There were a few well chosen expletives when I saw the damage while removing the "D" shackle. Definitely not a happy camper that day.
IMG20171006171216.jpg

I used the same snatch strap and method I have used on countless other recoveries performed with my 200 TDI 110 Defender and the old girl's chassis rail is still intact. I have raised the issue with LR and still waiting on a response. Has anyone else had any issues with the new Defender chassis'? I am no expert but the steel just doesn't look as thick as the old chassis. Chassis welding is a bit of a NO-NO but has anyone got some good advice on a repair solution?

IMG20171010220629.jpg

[weeds]

If that at the rear??

Umm, pretty sure they not for recovery and are only tie down point for when on a flatbed. Other will confirm. Either way a decent boiler maker would repair it.

[austastar]

Hi,
Yep, that is a tie down point, not meant, designed, or rated for recovery.
Should be easily patched/fixed as you will be getting rated recovery points to use next time? Yes/no?
Cheers

[roverrescue]

Is the chassis at the pull out bulging outwards because that tie down is bolted into an internal flange nut?captive. As opposed to on older defenders which were thru bolted.

If so that would explain the failure - single shear of outer flange of chassis

LR making a captive flange nut
modification makes more sense than chassis material changes at end of model life.
Captive nuts much quicker to install tie downs on the line

Steve

[Dallas]

Thanks for your quick responses. According to the LR 110 Defender workshop manuals these are recovery points. The manual actually gives instructions on how to use them. Albeit it they say snatch straps should be avoided, but after years of using snatch straps on the old girl with no issues I am concerned about this 2016 chassis' steel. I am not sure where these new chassis are manufactured. TATA the owners of JLR and are also a very large Indian steel maker. Part of the reason for my post is to check to see if anyone else has had this sort of issue in these newer Defenders. I hope my issue is just bad luck on the day and not too expensive to repair.

My only concerns with the welding is the engineering regulations restricting chassis welding, hence my involving LR in this issue. Perhaps they can recommend a solution for repair.

LR Recovery.jpg

[Dallas]

Is the chassis at the pull out bulging outwards because that tie down is bolted into an internal flange nut?captive. As opposed to on older defenders which were thru bolted.

If so that would explain the failure - single shear of outer flange of chassis

LR making a captive flange nut
modification makes more sense than chassis material changes at end of model life.
Captive nuts much quicker to install tie downs on the line

Steve

Thanks Steve.

Not sure if it is a captive nut attachment as the visibility on the other side of the chassis rail is obstructed. But I suspect not, as I would have thought it would have left a more irregular tear. However I will check. LR actually did make changes to the chassis a little while back. They changed the width between chassis rails + a few other design changes. I was hoping to use my old tow bar and bull bar from the old girl but alas they didn't fit.

[roverrescue]

Towing is very different to recovery
Have a look on the inside of the chassis rail
Is it a tutu bolt with washer and nut such as your old defender or is it as I suspect internally bolted to a flange captive nut?

Repair will be easy

LR chassis are not made of anything special
Clean / cut / plate - install through bolted Jate style recovery point if that's what you want

Steve

[Rolly]

Hi Dallas,

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news however pg 104 of the Defender Owners handbook clearly states that "The towing eyes at the front and rear of the vehicle are designed for on-road recovery only".
I looked into this quite closely as needed recovery points prior to going up to Cape york.
I had an ARB deluxe Bull bar fitted,.it also stated it was not rated to be used in recovery(this includes attaching swivel hooks etc).

I finally opted for the APT front guard wich has rated recovery points integrated.

Good Luck.

[tact]

Thanks for your quick responses. According to the LR 110 Defender workshop manuals these are recovery points. The manual actually gives instructions on how to use them. Albeit it they say snatch straps should be avoided, but after years of using snatch straps on the old girl with no issues I am concerned about this 2016 chassis' steel. I am not sure where these new chassis are manufactured. TATA the owners of JLR and are also a very large Indian steel maker. Part of the reason for my post is to check to see if anyone else has had this sort of issue in these newer Defenders. I hope my issue is just bad luck on the day and not too expensive to repair.

My only concerns with the welding is the engineering regulations restricting chassis welding, hence my involving LR in this issue. Perhaps they can recommend a solution for repair.

The page you posted refers to those eyes as towing or tie down points. Not "recovery points". There is a vast difference.

for example... You might tow your neighbour's car to a workshop. Very different and much less stress and strain on the tow point when pulling an otherwise unencumbered vehicle along a reasonably supportive surface than, for example, snatching out a vehicle down to the sills in a bog.

[Graekynn]

The bolt for these front tie down points on my car does go through the chassis rail and looked like it was sleeved; and this bolt location is actually used for the mounting of the APT steering guard. However the steering guard mounts in four places which helps distribute the shock load of a recovery over multiple points.

The exact wording of that manual excerpt should have been written better to more explicitly state that these are tie down/road towing points only. With regards to the damage to your chassis it can certainly be repaired by a decent fabricator. To answer your initial concerns I wouldn't be chalking this up to a weak chassis, just a life lesson about rated recovery points.

Hope it all works out.