SIII No Drive?

[El-Gato]

G'day all,
I have recently bought an old Ex Army SIII. It has been stored for the last 2 years approx. the problem is it hase no drive when i let the clutch out. . the reves drop slightly when gear is engaged but no drive.

Sounds clutchy to me, where do i start?

Any Ideas???????

[Phoenix]

Not sure. have you checked that everything is in gear (high/low and 4wd) and perhaps the clutch linkages etc.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">hmm.....a box full of neutrals.....


are you sure both the gearbox and transfer are in gear.....?
if yes and still no drive....try it with the centre diff locked.....</span>

[El-Gato]

did check everything was in gear. there is a slight movment when the clutch is let out but not enough to break the slight brake drag.(next on the list)
It was driving when i got it but i was slipping/spinning alot. i choked the clutch 'on' overnight in a attempth to bleed the cylinders. since then the slip has incresed to no drive. boooo

[JDNSW]

Originally posted by El&#045;Gato
G'day all,
I have recently bought an old Ex Army SIII. It has been stored for the last 2 years approx. the problem is it hase no drive when i let the clutch out. :( . the reves drop slightly when gear is engaged but no drive.

Sounds clutchy to me, where do i start?

Any Ideas???????

Sounds clutch to me too - I once had a S2a that had the centre break out of the clutch plate. But to check and confirm it is the clutch, remove the panel under the centre seat, and then the inspection opening on the top of the transfer case. This should confirm that there is no drive at the back of the main box - I suppose it coould be the main gearbox, but I would expect some action or at least noise in at least one gear!

[Phoenix]

[quote=DEFENDERZOOK]<span style="color:blue">..try it with the centre diff locked.....</span>

Pssst, there isn't a CDL in a series 3 :wink:

[stevo]

my old series II collasped the bottom layshaft bearings which dropped the
gears out of mesh only 4th gear would drive as this is direct through the box, had to start in low and change to high drove like this for a month as my other car had a blown gear box as well and being short on cash did not help

[UncleHo]

G'day El -Gato
There could be a couple of reasons, first ly jack up each rear wheel in turn and make sure it is not a locked wheel, or that the Handbrake hasn't seized on, the other thing is that the clutch driven plate (the one with the lining on ) is worn to thin therefore just giving enough to engage gear but not enough to give drive, so therefore you would have a clutch that feels right but just doesn't do anything 2% drive--98% slip if that is the case you should be able to feel it engage into gear,and only a slight take-up.

cheers.

[El-Gato]

thanks all.
Uncleho, what you descibe sounds on the money, I tried to remove the gearbox on the weekend but ran into some trouble with the bellhousing bolts/studs. the adapter plate for the holden conversion has studs coming from the plate... some of these came out with the nut while about 3 stayed in :x . at that point i ran out of time.
so is the clutch plate replacement a fairly straght forward operation? i have downloaded the manuals but the seem a bit light on the details...

[UncleHo]

G'day El-Gato
Yes, the clutch removal /replace is a pretty straight forward operation, particularly if you have done one on a vehicle before if not I would advise that you have a friend with mechanical knowledge to assist/advise you, you will need a "clutch dummy shaft " to be able to line the new clutch plate up to the spigot bush,(the bush in the middle of the Flywheel) as otherwise you will not be able to get the G/box back in to the rear of the motor, it is a good idea to have the back of the motor resting on a 1" (25mm) block of wood, (a piece of Tomato Stake about 4inches long will do) between the X-member and the Flywheel housing as that gives a slight rearward slope that aids refitting and does not overstress the engine mounts. The Clutch Dummy Spigot Shafts can be bought from places like "Supercrud" :wink: they are a universal type thing, and to get the correct diameter of the spigot hole so that it lines up, measure the end of the G/box primary shaft, then wrap the dummy shaft with masking tape until you have the required size :wink: then the clutch splines will be at 90%, if not, when the pressure plate is tightened up the clutch will be ?% off correct alignment and it is no fun giggling a Landy G/box around 8O

cheers