Did you try a ford dealer![]()
Hi all, so far I've been pretty happy with my 06 V8, except for fuel use, but the sound more than makes up for that.
I take it out this morning for a quick run, and pretty much every light comes on, including transmission fault, ABS I think, all sorts of stuff, although it's still driving. I get it home okay, and doing a bit of reading, I suspect it might be the brake light switch. Pull it apart, and yep, lots of black powder, and scorched tracks. Do you think I can find a LR place open today? Nope. I tried every one I could find between Ipswich and Gympie and nothing.
Anyway, cleaned up the switch, replaced the rear lamps (because who knows with Land Rover) reset the fault codes, and took it for a spin, and all seems hunky dorey.
I haven't read of anyone else cleaning up these switches, every seems to replace them. And while I will replace it (I have one ordered) am I just asking for trouble in driving it like it is, or should it be right for a little while now?
Did you try a ford dealer![]()
I did a dismantle and clean. That lasted the week or so until I had time to pick up and fit a replacement. Worst case is it happens again, but you'll probably be ok until you can get a replacement.
just about everything from Europe used that same switch now, Same in my Iveco 4x4 , failed twice in 100,000km
Im assuming yours looks like this.
Pedal Switch Sensor ALFA ROMEO : CITROEN : FIAT : JAGUAR : PEUGEOT : LBLS104 | eBay
Pinelli, I have an "ok used" switch if you get stuck between now and when you get a new one. We appear to live close by to each other. Matti
We may well be close, Matty, I'm at Caloundra. If you'd be happy to sell or lend it to me for the week while I"m on the road that would be awesome.
To add to the thread, couldn't get in to the car today with the fob. Ended up using the emergency entrance on the passenger door, and found the battery at about 6V. Given I gave it a good drive yesterday, I'm assuming it's dead, so off to get a new one $$$$$ ouch.
What will I be facing when I disconnect the battery to put the new one in? I'm assuming I'll have to put in some sort of code for the audio system. Anything else?
Edit: I'm guessing the dying battery may well have been causing the faults I've had in the past 24 hours. But I will replace the brake light switch at some stage anyway as it seems like a reasonable thing to do.
When I had the fault it persisted for a couple of weeks but only when my wife was driving. The first question my indie asked was "is the battery ok?". In my case it was the switch, but it absolutely refused to do it if I was in the car. A strip and clean solved it, so I put a new one in.
This thread has reminded me to put another one on my next lrdirect parts order along with some brake light bulbs (reputedly another cause of the same symptom).
Ok, new battery in, new faults on the Nanocom. Lots of Overvoltage faults. With the engine running, battery is charging at about 17.8V . That seems a little high!
Terminal posts are a little loose, but seem like originals. I know it's likely to be an alternator/regulator fault, but I might replace the battery terminals in any case, just see if it's an earthing fault.
Anyone know where the earth lead goes to? it seems to disappear into the wheel arch area. - It's okay, I worked it out.
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