When you swapped fan, did you swap all bits, that is the electrical part as well
Hi.
Finally putting out a post for help as i'm stumped.
Both the wife and I have 2010 Disco 4's and most of the time it makes fault finding and part substitute procedures easy, however I've been struggling with my fan.
I had an almost overheat while towing a trailer up the freeway out of ADL but managed to bring the whole transport system to a halt to save my engine.
I have done as much as I can to try and sort out the fan but would really appreciate some experience or help with this matter.
This is what has happened / been done to date:
1) Snap-on scanner - Fan 2 circuit low fault code
2) As normal (I think) the fan comes on for a few seconds when the car starts up but then only free spools even when getting hot you can always stop it by hand
3)Swapped out my fan with my wife's car - the fan works perfectly in hers and her fan also does not work in my car.
4)Swapped and changed the temp sensors, relays and 40amp fuses
All the components from my car works in her car and all the components from her car still doesn't get the fan kicking in when installed in my car.
If anyone has any advise, please help.
Cheers
When you swapped fan, did you swap all bits, that is the electrical part as well
It seems as tho you have an electrical issue , I am no expert but I can only assume the signal from the ECU is not telling the fan to start.
I am guessing there must be some sort of solenoid set-up to activate the fan but that is just a guess.
I know the fan is just a plug in when swapping over , so if your fan and a different fan work in another car , then it would seem as tho there is no power getting to the plug to activate the fan. Is the 40 amp fuse you speak of the fan fuse ? I don't have access to a wiring diagram but it would be good to see how its wired up. Is there a separate fuse , maybe behind the glove box...
Cheers Ean
I'm having a similar issue with my D3. Overheating but only under load at low speeds.
My mechanic said it was the radiator partially blocked but this sounds more likely.
What do you think?
If it is truly overheating due to blockages in the radiator, nothing will help short of replacement. Once upon a time you’d unsolder the end caps on a metal rad, but the plastic end cap ones aren’t generally repaired, only replaced. As you need to remove the end caps to ‘rod out’ the muck, replacement is the only viable option. None of the cleaners will fix it if it’s at the point of causing overheating I can assure you.
Personally I doubt it’s a blocked rad. The original coolant will still be in check at this age for the vehicle and is very unlikely to have formed sludge. You’ve already indicated that the fan is not mechanically performing as it should, being able to be stopped by hand even when overheated, correct? Normally it should be chopping off your fingers. You need to take it somewhere who knows what they’re doing, or start by checking the various electrical circuits to ensure the correct signals are being sent to the fan in my opinion.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
DiscoJeffster is spot on!
Although the coolant would be at the limits of age by now.
Thanks for the feedback.
I have changed all the posdible electrical bits and checked through the wiring diagram before posting for help.
I was suspecting that the ecu isn’t sending a signal to the fan to kick in, but really wanted to find out if anyone else have gone through or experienced or repaired this issue.
My next step is to try the battery cable reset and if that doesn’t work I’ll try the snap on scanner ecu / vehicale reset.
I’ll post any progress or changes
Ps - still open to any advice
Thanks
Hey mate. Some thoughts which you may have already checked. I had a quick look, perhaps try fuse 10e (10A) in engine junction box. Also check your fans ground wire.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks