Can I get stronger cv joints installed for off road for example?
Howdy, holed up in Mansfield waiting for flat bed back to Torquay. Got a flat bed here from sheepyard flat after being towed back from zeka spur by the guys I was touring with.
Any rough estimates in what it’s going to cost to fix.
Frustrating as was we weren’t doing anything particularly hard when the dreaded bang of the CV joint interrupted a planned 4day adventure in the vic high country...
Any advice appreciated
Can I get stronger cv joints installed for off road for example?
IMG_2586.jpg
Bugger
Do you work in super extend mode a lot? Do you have Llams?
No never
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						Front or rear? If rear, does your D4 have an e-diff? Rear CVs are bigger when an e-diff is fitted but can still be broken. If front, was it the RH? RH will pull apart at off-road height + full lock + heavy right boot.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberWhat exactly were you doing when it broke?
I have never broken a CV , touch wood NOW, but I never use full lock at full articulation and the skinny pedal at the same time. If at full lock or even close very little accelerator and I never steer left and right like a mad man to try and find traction, if its that slippery I have a winch and recovery gear.
Am very interested in what made it go and if it is a very weak unit or no offense but the nut behind the wheel
Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
Discovery 4 3.0 HSE MY13 ECB Bull bar, winch, spot lights, aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar, duel wheel carriers, 18 tuff ant wheels 265/65/18 BFG KO2's for play
No offence taken. I drive conservatively. In fact, I was just climbing a reasonably steep, and slightly bumpy dry 4wd road. Not slipping. Going straight ahead. would describe the section as medium grade tops. So definitely not full lock, and not trying to find traction.
Can they wear over time or do they usually require the type of driving you describe to fail?
It's an overload/fatigue failure, the overload/damage has been done in the past and it's finally let go.
Maybe so. I got the car with 40k on it (previous owner used it for city driving. Have done 60k since. Off road some of that time. Only time I can think where I might have over loaded it was a climb out of a river crossing in the vic high country in January this year. Slippery, heavily rutted, and steep, I reckon I might have put too much steering in. I remember thinking that was stupid- brain fade. Thought I’d dodged a bullet at the time. That might have done it I suppose. Paying the price 10 months later?
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