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Thread: How serious is P0736 gearbox fault?

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    How serious is P0736 gearbox fault?

    2005 D3 with 284,000km on clock, major clunking & gearbox fault when I reversed up my drive (fairly steep slope) codes read as P0736 reverse incorrect ratio and P0730 Incorrect gear ratio.

    No other issues other than standard LR gearbox clunks. Low box works fine.

    Will a gearbox flush & service help prolong the gearbox?

    If I don’t strain the box in reverse is it likely to be ok with regular service?

    Or is it knackered?

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by M005 View Post
    2005 D3 with 284,000km on clock, major clunking & gearbox fault when I reversed up my drive (fairly steep slope) codes read as P0736 reverse incorrect ratio and P0730 Incorrect gear ratio.

    No other issues other than standard LR gearbox clunks. Low box works fine.

    Will a gearbox flush & service help prolong the gearbox?

    If I don’t strain the box in reverse is it likely to be ok with regular service?

    Or is it knackered?

    Thanks
    Hi,

    if if no other mechanical issues, I’d be suggesting a full flush, filter and valve body rebuild. Sounds like you need new solenoids and valve body seals. See this link for further code clarifications https://www.obd-codes.com/p0736 where it refers to faulty solenoids.

    Just did my D4 at 183,000 km - well worth the trouble.

    Cheers,

    Eric

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    Thanks Eric

    Just deciding whether to spend $$$’s on this one or move it on and get something with solid history.

    Can the gearbox from a Ford Territory go in given it’s the same engine?

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    Quote Originally Posted by M005 View Post
    Thanks Eric

    Just deciding whether to spend $$$’s on this one or move it on and get something with solid history.

    Can the gearbox from a Ford Territory go in given it’s the same engine?
    No, different box.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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    Having the same engine doesn’t mean the same gearbox as noted. And how is switching from one unknown to a new unknown any better. Take Eric’s advice and have the valve body serviced, or DIY. I’m going to do mine this year. At 250,000km mine’s showing signs of age but I believe by refreshing the valve control body it’ll hopefully better control the other parts of the gearbox lessening damage to those components
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Having the same engine doesn’t mean the same gearbox as noted. And how is switching from one unknown to a new unknown any better. Take Eric’s advice and have the valve body serviced, or DIY. I’m going to do mine this year. At 250,000km mine’s showing signs of age but I believe by refreshing the valve control body it’ll hopefully better control the other parts of the gearbox lessening damage to those components
    Agree, wouldn’t look to switch to anything other than guaranteed recon unit.

    Only bought this vehicle 2wks ago, so this is unknown too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by M005 View Post
    I

    Agree, wouldn’t look to switch to anything other than guaranteed recon unit.

    Only bought this vehicle 2wks ago, so this is unknown too.
    The ZF boxes are great units, well engineered and more than capable of what we can throw at them. They are also precision engineered bits of kit and so need some TLC. They are easy too work on (valve bodies at least). The solenoid baskets get clogged with dirty oil, plus the valve body OEM seals degrade over time. New seals, solenoids and a quality fluid (LF6 or Penrite BMV) will make a difference. A new ZF is about 7.5K plus fitting, valve body service including all parts DIY is about 1200-1800 (depending on what ATF you choose). I haven’t checked, but I reckon having an auto shop do the valve body would set you back 2.5-3 K.

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